132 THE FORESTS OF UPPER INDIA 



they did to perfection ; and, indeed, without these sturdy 

 and sagacious animals I doubt whether many of us could 

 have got over so high a pass in deep, fresh snow. But 

 we had a long day and struggled on, arriving at our old 

 camp, where was a stream and sheltering caves and no 

 snow, not before sundown, without a halt the entire day. 

 We were often nearly exhausted from the high elevation 

 and hard tramping, and had to appease our hunger by 

 munching saitu and biscuits. Some men, as usual, got 

 snow-blind, and had to be helped along, for the sun came 

 out fierce and strong right overhead ; and when we got to 

 camp and fires were lighted and hot tea made, we felt 

 as if we had been rescued from an anxious position. One 

 unfortunate servant was missing ; he was a plainsman, and 

 had been seen very ill on the top of the pass. We called 

 for volunteers to return to rescue him, but few responded. 

 Hodgson and I started with two Bhotias, shouting and 

 moving a light, and went a considerable distance, but 

 had to return without the man. In the morning, which 

 was bright and fine, he turned up all right, having slept, 

 he said, in a cave. We reached Taklakhar without much 

 delay, and said good-bye to our friends the lama and 

 Zung-pun, who presented us with small gifts, and seemed 

 very glad when we finally crossed by the Bians Pass back 

 to the Indian side. The customs of the Buddhists and 

 their praying machines and prayers, ' mani padmi ho P 

 and their carving of the sacred formula on every rock 

 and stone which must be passed, always in one direc- 

 tion, left to right — these things have been described fre- 

 quently in books of travel, from Dr. Hooker's down to the 

 latest. Captain Wellby's, and do not need further recording. 

 We had found the Hunias a very harmless well-mean- 

 ing people, and had experienced no difficulties, when 

 once we had come to an agreement with the proper 



