NO MAN'S LAND 151 



the spring was dry. The ponies and yaks carrying our 

 loads were very weary and thirsty, the yaks grunting 

 frequently to one another. We had all to lump it, and 

 pitch our tents and go thirsty to bed. Luckily we had the 

 kettle full of milk, and made chocolate ; but, between the 

 thickness of the mixture and the richness of the milk, it 

 was a sickening beverage, and we felt thirstier after drink- 

 ing it, and suffered indigestion as well as thirst. At first 

 dayhght the yak drivers had collected and loaded the 

 poor, thirsty beasts, and we started, still following the 

 ravine, and over the top of a high plateau and down to the 

 north-west in the direction of our route. Panting under 

 a hot sun, we pushed on, riding our stout ponies ; at 

 last, down in a hollow where paths converged, we came on 

 a green pool of stagnant water. There were tracks of 

 yaks and sheep having been here recently standing in the 

 muddy pond. Our poor ponies rushed in and thoroughly 

 enjoyed themselves, gulping down the turbid liquid, 

 though it resembled pea-soup. We waved to our following 

 to come on, as we could see the melancholy procession of 

 yaks and men just topping the hills we had crossed. On 

 they came with improving speed, as if scenting the water, 

 and soon all had their noses well immersed. Having filled 

 a vessel from the least disturbed place, and filtered the 

 contents through pocket-handkerchiefs into a degchi, our 

 servants were not long in boiling the stuff ; and when made 

 into tea it was the most delicious drink imaginable. 



The vertical sun was hot ; the bare arid ground, covered 

 with hot stones, reflected its dazzling brilliance, and the 

 heat was as tr5nng as in the plains of India, and the direct 

 rays much stronger, owing to the perfectly clear atmo- 

 sphere. We, as usual, boiled the thermometer, and found 

 it over 16,000 feet. The water boiled at 180° temperature. 

 The direct rays of the sun raised the thermometer when 



