MEDINA. 237 



BMfelzins, or mezowars and guides, similar to that of 

 their brethren of the BeiluUah. They are persons 

 of far higher importance, and are more richly 

 dressed, though in the same costume. Their usual 

 title is aga; the chief, or Sheik el Haram, is styled 

 Highness, and considered the principal person in 

 the town. They have large stipends sent yearly 

 from Constantinople, besides a share of the fees and 

 donations of the hajjis. Their number is fixed at 

 500, and they have correspondents dispersed over 

 the whole Turkish empire. Besides their share of 

 the income of the mosque, they have their surra or 

 annuity, which is transmitted from Constantinople 

 and Cairo ; many of their families receiving as much 

 as 100/. or 200/. st-erling per annum, without per- 

 forming any duty whatever. It is from this source 

 chiefly that the city, with its public and pious founda- 

 tions, is supported, though the greater portion of 

 these annuities is often misapplied, aaid only serves 

 to pamper a swarm of idle hypocrites. 



Notwithstanding some valuable presents, its repu- 

 tation for wealth, and its splendid exterior, the 

 mosque of the Prophet ranks only as a poor estab- 

 lishment. The gaudy colours displayed on every 

 side, the glazed columns, fine pavements, aiid gilt 

 inscriptions, dazzle the sight at first ; but after a 

 short pause it becomes evident Xo the spectator that 

 this is an exhibition of tinsel decoration, and not of 

 real riches, " It will bear no comparison," says 

 Burckhardt, " with the shrine of the most insignifi- 

 cant Catholic saint in Europe, and may serve as a 

 convincing proof that, whatever may be their super- 

 stition and fanaticism, the INIoslem are not disposed 

 to make the same pecuniary sacrifices to their reli- 

 gious foundations, as the Popish or even the Prot- 

 estant Christians do for theirs." 



There are several other places in the neighbour- 

 hood which are also included in these pious visita- 

 tions, among which are the sepulchres of the son 



