70 NEWFOUNDLAND 



in my life was I so glad to get rid of anything as that 

 burden when at last we reached our main camp. Skulls 

 and horns are awkward things to carry, even when you 

 are accustomed to packing, but, to an amateur in the 

 business like myself, they seemed at times almost unendur- 

 able. Yet, after a good dinner and a smoke, I carried them 

 on through the timber for another two miles to St. John's 

 Lake, where our canoes were, and paid for it with a sleep- 

 less night. 



Our journey up the Terra-Nova and through the two 

 lakes had been comparatively easy and swift, owing to the 

 beautiful weather and absence of wind. Now, however, we 

 were to experience cold and to face half a gale. We started 

 early on the 27th to pass the St. John's Lake, where, by 

 the way, I saw a beautiful caribou stag moving along the 

 western shore ; but, ere reaching the farther end, it began 

 to blow, and knocked up such a jabble that we were nearly 

 swamped ; one wave nearly filled us, and Saunders and I 

 had to paddle with all our might to reach the shallows in 

 safety. Then we had to unload everything to get the water 

 out, and had hardly started again when another wave came 

 over the side of the little boat. After another bale out, we 

 had to advance with the greatest caution, and then could only 

 make slow progress against the increasing wind. Saunders 

 thought at one time we should have to camp for the day, 

 but by steady paddling we managed to keep on till the 

 last headland of the lake was passed, and the river which 

 joins the lake with Mollygojack came into view. There I went 

 ashore, and walked for a few miles till the men caught me 

 up in the canoes. It was easy water between the two lakes, 

 and we had only to unload twice in passing "rattles," as 

 they called the strong rapids, so we made good progress, 



