RETURN TO GLENWOOD 133 



four days more before we reached the mouth of the Gander ; 

 but after passing the waterfalls the difficulties with the canoes 

 ceased, for we reached water sufficiently deep to run the 

 boats and their loads with care and safety. On the evening 

 of the 27th a happy circumstance seemed to have brought the 

 steamer to the mouth of the river, for she had not been there 

 since she had brought us, so we got aboard, and next morning 

 reached Glenwood and the railway line. Here I recovered 

 my camera, and took a few photos of the heads, paid off Bob 

 and Sandy, who had well earned their wages and a bit more. 

 Better men to go anywhere, and turn their hands to anything, 

 I have not found. Both had worked with untiring patience in 

 cold water for twenty days, and would have been quite keen 

 to " pack " on for another twenty had I wished them to do so. 



The food provided by the Glenwood HoteP was so bad 

 that, after spending an unhappy hour there wrestling with some 

 flaccid liquor named by courtesy tea, and a piece of chewed 

 string, which at some remote period might have been a rabbit, 

 I returned to my camp and had a simple yet clean dinner. 



Travellers at some of these remote hostelries have only 

 one idea in the world, and that is to get away from them 

 as quickly as possible. An untruthful but humorous story 

 tells of an unfortunate "drummer" — and "drummers" can 

 stand most things — who, after partaking of two meals, 

 decided to end his life. He lay down on the metals a 

 minute or two before the express was due. After waiting 

 for two days and catching a severe cold, he was reluctantly 

 compelled to give up the idea of suicide, and is now instituting 

 a claim for compensation against the railway company for 

 the unpunctuality of their trains. 



' I am speaking of the Glenwood Hotel of 1903. It has, I believe, twice 

 changed hands since then. 



