142 NEWFOUNDLAND 



time Placentia was an opulent centre of the Grand Bank 

 fishery, but it is now more or less neglected. Why, it is 

 difficult to understand, because its great beach is more suit- 

 able for the drying of cod than any place in the island. The 

 sea-trout fishing in the neighbourhood is excellent, and if 

 protected it would be of great value to the residents. At 

 Placentia live Mr. Albert and John Bradshaw. The former 

 will show you the service of plate presented by King 

 William IV., who visited this place during his travels, and 

 a delightful collection of Indian and Esquimaux relics which 

 he has gathered from the Labrador and Northern New- 

 foundland. He kindly presented me with a caribou charm 

 of the Beothick Indians, which was supposed to carry good 

 luck in hunting. 



At Placentia I found the Glencoe, which performs 

 weekly journeys along the south coast, and here too, lying 

 like a veil, was the Newfoundland fog in all its density. In 

 the evening we started westwards, and, leaving the land of 

 sunshine, were at once lost in the gloom. 



To find the various ports we had to enter was no easy 

 task, but Captain Drake seemed to know his way blindfold. 

 The steamer went full speed right ahead into Burin, and the 

 captain took the most surprising liberties with his boat. 

 Navigation was principally accomplished by the use of the 

 steam-whistle, which kept blowing all the time, and by its 

 use the old mariner could tell where he was by the echo on 

 the surrounding hills. He bears the reputation of being the 

 most accomplished fog captain in existence, and the skill 

 with which he steered past anchored " bankers " and hidden 

 rocks was amazing, even if appearing somewhat risky. The 

 pace, about twelve knots, never slackened, and at 6 a.m. we 

 entered the harbour of St. Lawrence, when the land greeted 



