200 Life in the Open 



bespangled and blushing, and accepted, the two be- 

 ginning an interminable whirling, often confined to a 

 few feet. I watched this bdile most of the evening, but 

 in all that joyous period I did not hear a laugh or see a 

 smile ; surely the Mexican takes his pleasure seriously, 

 at least at Pala. When the dance was over the maiden 

 was released and took her seat, the gallant going out to 

 smoke, play, or drink alone. Let us hope that he 

 quaffed to one of the serious maidens left silent and 

 alone on the floor of the ramdda. 



The old chapel Mission of San Antonio de Pala, 

 now an interesting ruin, was founded by Padre Peyri, 

 and is an excellent example of the crude early Mission. 

 The long chapel is of stone or adobe, and contains a 

 life-size statue of San Antonio de Pala ; also one of St. 

 Louis, King of France, which is borne up and down the 

 plaza on feast days by the devout Indians. Pala was 

 founded in 1816, and differs from all the Missions along 

 the King's Highway in having a disconnected or 

 isolated belfry which stands out distinct, alone. 



From Pala the road turns to the west, and we follow 

 the creek toward the sea. It is impossible to convey 

 an idea of the charm of riding through this land of 

 dreams in the dead of winter. The country is carpeted 

 in tender greens ; great masses of star-eyed flowers 

 cover acres, and roll away like the waves of the sea, 

 lost in the distance. Here the red of painters-brush 

 lends a flush to the mesa, and the air, soft as velvet, 

 fans the cheek, an elixir of health. The flute-like sono- 



