24 LIFE WITH THE HAMRAN ARABS. 



Round their neck is fastened a string of brown beads, 

 and round the right arm above the elbow little wooden 

 or leathern boxes containing portions of the Koran, and 

 worn as charms to keep off sickness. A sheet, white or 

 of various shades of brown, according to dirtiness, wound 

 several times round the loins and having one end occa- 

 sionally thrown over a shoulder,. and a pair of sandals, 

 complete their costume. Each carries a long spear and 

 curved stick, and some also a shield of rhinoceros or other 

 hide. Altogether their appearance is most picturesque, 



Jan. 2. From Souakim to Kassala there are two 

 main routes well defined by the great camel traffic. 

 Our path so far has continued close to the telegraph, 

 from which even the desert of Africa cannot now escape ; 

 and to-day we have been passing through a wide valley, 

 flanked on either side by a fine range of rugged moun- 

 tains, and have arrived at water which, though not fit 

 for us to drink, will do for cooking as well as for the 

 camels. 



We took good care to be well supplied with means 

 for carrying water, and have padlocks on our four large 

 barrels to prevent the Arabs robbing us of this precious 

 store, when our pig-skins and leather bottles are emp- 

 tied. We saw a great number of gazelle to-day, and 

 killed six. 



Jan. 3. This morning we did not get off till after 

 . 8 A.M., though up as usual before 5 A.M. It is most try- 



