OSMERS DIRECTIONS FOR SHOEING. 503 



the fore part of the foot, towards the toe, and the toe 

 itself thinned, whereby the compression on the parts is 

 rendered somewhat less, by diminishing the strength of 

 the hoof or crust. 



' But this rasp is to be used with discretion, lest the 

 crust being too thin, and not able to support the weight 

 of the horse, a sandcrack ensue ; which frequently hap- 

 pens from too free or unskilful use of this tool, and from 

 the natural rigid texture of the coronet. The heel of the 

 shoe, on all strong and narrow-heeled horses, should be 

 made strait at the extreme points ; the form of the shoe 

 in some measure helping to distend the heel of the horse. 

 For the same reason, the shoe on no horse should be 

 continued farther than the point of the heel. It has been 

 already said that neither frog nor sole should ever be pared ; 

 nevertheless, it must be understood that it is impossible 

 to pare the crust without taking away some of the adjacent 

 sole, and it is also requisite, in order to obtain a smooth 

 and even surface, so far as the breadth of the shoe reaches, 

 and no farther. The frog also will become ragged, and 

 loose pieces will occasionally separate from the body 

 thereof, perhaps in one foot, and not in the other. When 

 this happens, it should be cut away with a knife, to pre- 

 vent the gravel lodging therein. But if it be left to the 

 artist to do, he will be sure to take away more of it at one 

 time than will grow again in many weeks.' 



He advocates calkins, or ' corking ' the shoes, in winter 

 only, when the ground is soft and slippery ; and then says 

 of his recommendations : ' This method of treating the 

 foot, and such a kind of shoe as has been described, I have 

 used many years ; and, to the best of my remembrance. 



