Chapter VIII. 



Umberto Peak between the Eiiiiii and Uniberto Glaciers. ( )n 

 reacliin^ the riglit margin of the latter they left their tent 

 there some 600 feet above tlie sixth cani]i and proceeded to 

 ascend over the snow which covered the ghicier. At the top 

 they turned westward towards a rockv ridge, bv means of 

 which they reached Umberto Peak. Here they remaineel for 

 five hours, but Avere scarcely able to catch a glimpse of a 

 ])eak here and tliere among the mists. Thev built a l)ig 

 stone man n])on the wide I'oekv summit. 



A great ridge of broken and decomposing rock runs north- 

 ward towards Kraepelin Peak, which is lower and likewise 

 I'ocky. Mt. Gessi, on the other side of the narrt)w gorge, 

 lietween precipitous clitts, lias the appearance of a vast col 

 Avith two peaks rather slightlv accentuated at the northern 

 and southern extremities of the long snoAvy ridge. It Avas late 

 when they returned to the tent near the glacier. The Duke 

 AA^ould haA'e liked to retmn upon Umberto Peak on the folloAving 

 day to take angles, l)ut tlie Aveatlier Avas tlu'eatening from the 

 dawn. They had supplies for one daA' only. At such a distance 

 from Bujongolo, which \\as their liasp, and ^\'lth so man\' passes to 

 cross on the way, it Avas not easy to obtain provisions regularly. 

 It was therefore necessary to return. 



In half an boui- they reached Camjj VI, under the Cavalli 

 Pass, ascended to tlie hclrcdo-c, in a snoAvstorm, and in the 

 earlA' hours of the aftei'iioon set up tlieir tent once more at 

 the foot of Vittorio Emanuele Peak. ( )n the following daA', 

 a lona' march, almost entireh' in the rain, brouplit them o\'er 

 the Stuhlmann Pass, the head of tlie Bujuku Valley, and tlie 

 Scott Elliot Pass. Tliey once more set uji their tents at 

 Camp II, on tlie shore of the little lake at the toot of the 

 AA'estern slojie of Mt. Baker. liations had been left readA' at 



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