i8y8. 



THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 



115 



as much honey as the old I's section with its openings when used 

 with plain separators; and consequently the ordinary shipping- 

 case will hold from 15 to 35 per cent, more honey, thus effecting a 

 substantial saving in cases to the bee-keeper. 



Thi fence and section that the Rout people have fixt on 

 are shown in the accooipanying illustrations. The slats are 

 %-iDoh wide, and spaced 2/12 of an inch apart. The cleats 

 are 3^-lnch wide by 2/12 thick. But some have asked, 

 "Why 2/12?" Mr. Root says that is because, when the 

 space is wider, say % or 5/16, the bees are liable to ridge 



The Fence or Clcated Separator. 



the honey opposite the openings. If these spaces are confined 

 to the width of the perforated zinc, which are. In round num- 

 bers, 2/12 inch, he claims there will be no ridges. 

 ~: If plain sections ever come into general use, it will greatly 

 simplify the present method of cleaning propolis off the sec- 

 tions, because there are no insets or openings in the sections 

 to clean ; and as these openings cannot be cut quite so smooth 

 as the rest of the section, they are apt to be covered more with 

 propolis and stain than other parts of the section. Mr. Aspin- 

 wall makes use of a wooden cylinder covered with sand-paper. 

 While this Is revolving at a high rate of speed the edges of 

 the sections are drawn across it, cleaning the wood at one 

 sweep, and this makes it look as fresh, so Mr. Asplnwall says, 

 and as nice as when it originally came from the factory. Mr. 

 Golden, whose section-cleaner was illustrated on page 33, in- 



Dovetailed Super u<ith Plain Section and Fence. 



stead of using a sanded cylinder, makes use of a belt made of 

 sand-paper. The section is laid against the face of this rap- 

 ridly-traveling belt, and, presto 1 the whole face of the section 

 is cleaned in the twinkling of an eye. 



We understand that the Root people are figuring on a 

 smaller and cheaper machine for sand-papering the surfaces of 

 the sections after they are filled with honey, that can be used 

 by the mass of bee-keepers. 



golden's plain section super and fence. 



In Gleanings for Feb. 1, Mr. J. A. Golden gives full direc- 

 tions for making the fence or slat separator, which we repro- 

 duce, with the illustration on the first page, which Gleanings 

 has kindly loaned to us. Here is what Mr. Golden says : 



" I send a photo of iiy arrangement of super for the no- 

 bee-space section, and how I manage to change my leveled- 

 down-comb bee-space sections to the no-bee-space; also how I 

 arrange the section-holder for the no-bee-space section with 

 slatted separator. 



" I want to say to all who want to try the no-bee-space 

 sections and slatted separator that they will find this arrange- 

 ment far the handiest and most accurate of any plan — at least 

 that I can suggest. 



" First, I make a mold to make the slatted separator In — 

 see No. 1 in cut ; It is made by tacking on a smooth true board 

 some ribs lengthwise just where you want spaces between the 

 slats and the width of the opening. Transversely in the board, 

 grooves should be cut to receive the cross-cleats. The cut will 

 show (of course, make this pattern accurate and true). Cut 

 the old or new separator strips straight the width you desire, 

 and the exact length of inside section-holder. Having the 



little cleats cut, and one chooses to tack them together, drop 

 a cleat into each groove, then lay the slats in their proper 

 spaces, placing another set of cleats on top over the under 

 cleats; drive three tacks through each set of cleats, and lift 

 separator out ; clinch the small points, and your separator is 

 complete. 



" But if one prefers to glue them, it is but a child's play. 

 Having cleats and slats and a pot of hot glue, swipe one side 

 of the little cleats, and put them in the transverse grooves, 

 glue side up, then lay the slats on the glued cleats, and on the 

 slats over the cleats lay another set of cleats, and over all a 

 smooth board, and press one or two minutes; takeout the 

 fence and stack up, and keep weighted down for a few hours. 

 It takes Flody just two minutes to glue a one-fence separator. 



"Number 2 is the section-holder. It is made solid by 

 nailing the section-slats to two end-boards, just so that four 

 sections will fit between neatly ; then nail on one side a cleated 

 board to correspond with cleated separator, and one loose 

 cleated sideboard, No. 4, completes the section-holder. The 

 cut shows Flody filling a holder. 



" Number 3 shows one of my bee-way supers, filled with 

 the no-bee-space sections; and holder No. 5, showing how 

 they are held in place. No. -i, a loose side-board, is slipt in, 

 and wedges pushtdown between the holder and side, and the 

 body of the super holds them permanent, and clamps sections 

 bee-glue tight. 



" Number 6 shows three sections of honey with the pro- 

 jecting edges dipt o£E by a circular saw." 



Answer to Questions on the "Golden" Method 

 of Comb Honey Production. 



BY J. A. GOLDEN. 



On page 66, Mr. McNeal has given us quite an interesting 

 article, and I am very glad to read his comments, yet it is a 

 fact that bee-keepers are more given to theorizing upon the 

 subject of apiculture, so it seems to me, than on any other in- 

 dustry. Theories not practiced figure nothing in apiculture. 



But to answer Mr. McNeal's questions and intimations as 

 to my method, 1 will say : 



First, how do I keep pollen out of the supers during the 

 five days? By placing the parent colony over the supers in 

 which the queen and swarm have been hived on starters or 

 full sheets of comb foundation {not drawn comb), and provid- 

 ing side-entrances so that when the field-bees come in loaded 

 with pollen they go directly to the brood-combs and deposit 

 their pollen. 



Now, I don't know whether they (beesof the swarm), dur- 

 ing the five days, return after depositing pollen and deposit 

 their little mite of nectar below or not, but I do know that I 

 have never seen, to the best of my knowledge, one cell of pol- 

 len in section honey produced by this method, and I have let- 

 ters from quite a number of bee-keepers during the past sea- 

 son who claim the same success. 



Now, I don't think it ought to be much of awrinkle if one 

 will properly test as recommended. That's the way I usually 

 do with any manipulation that comes up, and in so doing many 

 theoretical ideas I had trumpt up wither away. So I hope 

 Mr. McNeal will fulfill his promises the coming season. 



There is much in Mr. McNeal's article I would like to 

 notice, but it would require too much space in this article. I 

 will just say, however, that I use both S and 10 frame hives, 

 and I think if be could see them during the season he would 

 think they ought to be able to pile up the nectar. 



Before closing, I want to say amen to C. B. Elliott's clos- 

 ing paragraphs on page 68. It is a fact. Who will be the 

 next? Let's have them all. Continue that practice, Mr. 

 Elliott, and I don't believe your bees will ever have paralysis 

 or foul brood. Morgan Co., Ohio. 



Questions on Extracted Honey Production. 



BY C. P. DADANT. 



I have received the following questions with the request 

 that I reply to them in the American Bee Journal : 



Mr. C. p. Dadant : — In running for extracted honey do you 

 use the narrow frames altogether ? and do you use full sheets of 

 foundation in such frames as you do use ? 



Do you extract during the honey-flow, or leave all on until the 

 end of the season ? 



How do you care for the empty combs during the winter ? and 

 how are they cleaned after extracting ? 



Any additional information along these lines which you may 

 be able to give will be highly appreciated. Chcckleuead. 



