262 



THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 



April 28, 



Mr. Pease — What is the market price of honey here in 

 Denver ? 



Mr. Liebhardt — There is no market price. There never 

 will be as long as present conditions continue. Will adulter- 

 ated honey granulate? 



Pres. Aikin — I think not. 



Mr. Liebhardt — Then that is one of the main points that 

 ought to be brought ont, to show the purity of your honey. 



F. Rauchfuss — California white-sage honey and some 

 Cuban honeys will not granulate for a long time. But we have 

 no honey in Colorado that will not granulate in a short time. 



Mr. Brock — As to the market price, I askt 10 cents for 

 my honey. A mac said he could get honey for 6 cents. But 

 I sold him 20 pounds at 10 cents. 



Mr. Rhodes — I sold 5 to 6 tons per year several years ago 

 of extracted honey in just one or two streets, by giving away 

 tastes. The thing is to get honey to the people. Where we 

 would sell a tint to begin with we would afterward sell much 

 larger quantities. 



Pres. Aikin — As a result of my work, The A. I. Root Co. 

 say that if no other firm will take up the matter tney will, 

 providing bee-keepers take carload lots of cans. In the Cana- 

 dian Bee Journal Mr. Holtermann says he is backt by the 

 Goold, Shaply & Muir Co., in obtaining a suitable retail pack- 

 age, which sells itself, and can be packt in a 10-cent flour 

 barrel, and shipt as granulated honey in barrels at a low rate 

 of freight. I packt 30 four-pound pails in a 5-cent lime-bar- 

 rel and shipt it as honey in barrels, at fourth-class freight, to 

 Kansas at half the cost of former shipments. The Western 

 Freight classifications of honey, as f urnisht by F. Rauchfuss, 

 are as follows : 



In pails and cans, double 1st; in cans boxt, 4th ; In glass 

 jars boxt, 2nd : in tumblers boxt, 1st ; in kegs, 4rth ; in bar- 

 rels or casks, ith ; in boxes with glass fronts, 1st; granulated 

 in pails, boxt, 2nd. 



Mr. Pease — My sweet clover honey has not granulated. 

 Suppose our honey does not granulate? 



Pres. Aikin — That is why we must adopt a standard pack- 

 age that is sealed. Alfalfa honey, too, when it has once been 

 melted, hardly ever gets really solid again, but consists of 

 granules mixt in the liquid. It stays that way several years. 

 I sold my extracted honey at a low price. I reasoned this 

 way: If I pay freight, etc., how much have I left ? About 

 as much as Cilifornia producers get, and we all know what 

 that Is. But here are a lot of poor people buying syrups ; my 

 neighbors have just as good a right to get it cheap as some 

 commission-man. Granulated sugar makes a good syrup. It 

 is a matter of cheapness. So I aimed to keep the price some- 

 where near that of granulated sugar. And advertising pays. 

 I got more for my honey than if I had shipt it. It we pro- 

 duced 10, 20, or 100 times as much there would be a market 

 for it. It would take the place of sugar and glucose. 



Mr. Liebhardt, there has been a discussion about the rela- 

 tive merits of tall and square sections. Here are two sections 

 of honey, one tall and one square. Which do you prefer ? 



Mr. Liebhardt— The square one. If the tall sections were 

 adopted, we would have to prove they had not been trimmed 

 off. The eye desires a perfect shape. 



[Continued next week.] 



The 'Wood Binder for holding a year's numbers of 

 American Bee Journal, we propose to mail, postpaid, to every 

 subscriber who sends to us 20 cents. It is a very simple 

 arrangement. Full printed directions accompany each Binder. 

 Every reader should get it, and preserve the copies of the Bee 

 Journal as fast as they are received. They are invaluable for 

 reference, and at the low price of the Binder you can afford to 

 get it yearly. 



.#-.-►. 



Tlie Alsike Clover L,eaflet consists of 2 pages, 

 with illustrations, showing the value of Alsike clover, and 

 telling how to grow it. This Leaflet is just the thing to hand 

 to every farmer in your neighborhood. Send to the Bee Jour- 

 nal office for a quantity of them, and see that they are dis- 

 tributed where they will do the most good. Prices, postpaid, 

 are as follows : 50 for 20 cents ; 100 for 35 cents ; or 200 

 for 60 cents. 



Langstrotli on tbe Honey-Bee, revised by 

 The Dadants, is a standard, reliable and thoroughly complete 

 work on bee-culture. It contains 520 pages, and is bound 

 elegantly. Every reader of the American Bee Journal should 

 have a copy of this book, as it answers hundreds of questions 

 that arise about bees. We mail it for.SL25, or club it with 

 the Bee Journal for a year — both together for only $2.00. 



CONDUCTED BT 



DR. O. O. MILLER, OiLAJiEFlGO, ILL, 



[Questions may lie mailed to the Bee Journal, or to Dr. Miller direct.l 



Formic Acid in Honey. 



In what manner does formic acid get into honey ? Can it be 

 extracted from the honey ' If so, how ? Ontario. 



Answer. — The best authorities seem to think it gets into the 

 honey through the circulation of the bee. Probably there is no 

 practical way by which you can get it out of the honey, and prob- 

 ably it wouldn't be a good thing to get it out if you could. 



nianagins an Out-Apiary. 



I am going to start an out-apiary this season of about 60 colo- 

 nies, and will run them for comb honey. I want to tend the out- 

 yard and home-yari alone. Please give the full management. 



MiCUIGAN. 



Answer. — To give entire management of an out-apiary would 

 take many times the room allowed in this department. It involves 

 all that is involved in the management of the home apiary, the 

 principal points of difference being — at least in your case — that 

 there is no one at hand at all times to watch for swarms. A queen- 

 trap In front of each hive or some other plan must be used. Much 

 information as to management of out-apiaries is given in Root's 

 •■ A B C of BeeCultare." 



[We mail this book for ?1. 2.5. or club it with the Bee Journal 

 for one year— both together for .?3.00.— Editor.] 



Quu§tions on Siiallow Brood-Cliauibers, Etc. 



1. Please give your ideas of the advantages and disadvantages 

 of the Heddon or double-shallow-brood-chamber. 



2. If you were to use double-shallow-brood-chambers, what 

 kind would you recommend — the Heddon closed-end frames with 

 screws, or two of our regular supers, Sf^ high with HofTman's half- 

 depth frames, 5\ ? 



3. Could we not use thumb-screws with the Hoffman frames 

 and invert them if necessary ? 



4. Would the bees build brace-combs between the brood- 

 chambers ? 



5. In this section we do not get over 30 pounds of nice honey 

 from each colony; this we get from sourwood, and is nearly our 

 last honey plant or tree. Now to change the brood-chambers just 

 when we wanted the bees to store this sourwood honey in sections, 

 would they not carry the dark honey already in the brood-chamber 

 up into the sections, and also the sourwood ? Then, of course, they 

 would not have anything to winter on. I think it would be all 

 right to change brood-chambers, invert them if they would not 

 carry what honey they had in the brood-chambers into the sec- 

 tions. How is this ? 



Ij. How would it do to use two brood-chambers up to the sour- 

 wood flow, and then put all the bees into one brood-chamber, 5-}{ 

 high, until the sourwood flow is over ; in the meantime keep one or 

 two colonies, and put the extra brood-frames or hives on these col- 

 onies, and let them store honey in them, au<i after the flow put 

 them back on the original colonies for winter ? 



I do not think it advisable to scatter these extra brood-frames 

 over weak colonies, as the original shallow brood-cases would not 

 have enough to winter on after sourwood flow. It would be very 

 nice to give the extra frames to weak colonies if the original colo- 

 nies could store enough to winter on. I have been using the Lang- 

 stroth S-frame hive, but it's very hard to get bees into the sections. 

 I cut one of them down to about five or six inches last season, and 

 got 24 pounds of nice sourwood honey from it, while I got scarcely 

 nothing from the others, except when I cnt it out of the 

 brood-frames. 



7. What about queen-excluding boards for these shallow hives ? 

 Do you lay the queen-excluder down flat on the brood-frames, or a 

 bee-space between the brood-frames and queen-excluder ■ 



8. Does inverting these brood-chambers make bees tear down 

 queen-cells ? If so, this would be one good point. 



9. In using a bottom-board '^ high, or a bee-space (X ^s in the 

 Danzy hive), would the bees not build brace-combs between the 

 bottom of the hive and brood-frames ? And again, would "5, high 

 not hinder them from reaching or climbing up to the brood-frames 

 with a load of honey ? 



10. How about the fence-separator and tall sections ? 



North Carolina. 



Answers. — 1. Not having had practical experience, which you 

 have had. I can hardly give anything that would be of value to you. 



2. I should prefer those that would hang true without any 

 screwing together. 



3. Yes, but if I were going to use thumb-screws, I should much 

 prefer the Heddon frames. Tbey will go together more solid than 



