1898. 



THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL 



727 



the printed directions sent out with queens by queen-breeders, 

 you will be pretty safe. Your text-book on bee-keeping will 

 give you information on the subject, and on many others that 

 will many times over pay the cost of the book if you study it 

 faithfully. 



With almost aty way of introducing queens there will be 

 occasional failures, but I'll tell you a plan you may follow that 

 will make a sure thing of it, If you are willing to be to the 

 trouble Take two or more frames of sealed brood, no un- 

 sealed brood, some of it just hatching out, be sure to brush ofif 

 every last bee, put in an empty hive and add a comb or two 

 containing some honey. Shut the hive up bee-tight, and open 

 it in about five days, making the entrance only large enough 

 for a single bee if there's the least danger of robbers. If the 

 weather is not warm enough during the five days the hive is 

 shut up, take the hive into some place where it will be warm 

 enough. 



8. I don't know. In some places the average will be much 

 more than in others. In most places 50 pounds Is probably a 

 good average, and that's a good deal too much in some places. 

 On the other hand, some places may go considerably 

 beyond that. 



9. The best cellar for you is probably out-doors. Farther 

 North almost any cellar will answer that is well aired, that 

 can be kept dark, and that has a temperature that will keep 

 bees most nearly dormant, that temperature generally being 

 somewhere near 45-. 



10. Probably out-doors in South Carolina. 



11. That's a matter of convenience, circumstances and 

 taste. Under ordinary circumstances, perhaps eight rods is a 

 good distance. In some cases eight feet would be enough, and 

 in some cases 16 rods would be better. 



12. If a considerable portion of its intestines come away 

 with the sting it will die before long. If nothing but the stiug 

 and the poison-sac Is lost. It will live perhaps some days, but 

 I'm not entirely sure about that. It's doubtful that it will live 

 in any case as long as if It had not lost its sting. 



Wax-Worms. — Graven horst advises to take the frames 

 from the hive one after another, shake off the bees, knock on 

 the wood of the frame with a knife-handle, and this will make 

 the worms crawl out of their hiding-places, when they can be 

 dispatcht. 



Greenhill's Non-Swarming Hive is pictured in the Brit- 

 ish Bee Journal. A space below the brood-nest allows a super 

 of shallow frames. When these are partly workt out, they 

 are put above and replaced by another set of empty ones. It 

 is practically the Simmins non-swarming plan. 



Propolis in Different Iiocalities. — Editor Root, of Glean- 

 ings, has been observing in his travels the difference in the 

 kind and amount of propolis in different localities, and ac- 

 counts thereby for the fact that " one bee-keeper thinks the 

 Hoffman frame an intolerable nuisance, and another regards 

 It as the ne plus ultra of perfection." He finds propolis much 

 worse in Northern Illinois than in Ohio or New York. 



A Novel Method of Wintering was reported across the 

 water some time ago, a weak colony having placed over it a 

 loaf of sugar covered with a common flower-pot, the whole 

 carefully covered over. The attendant success induced an- 

 other man, reported in a French bee-journal, to try the same 

 thing on two weak colonies, and they came through in fine 

 condition. The moisture from the bees was sufficient taenable 

 them to supply themselves from the dry sugar. 



Full Sheets vs. Starters in Sections. — It pays to use full 

 sheets of foundation in sections in order to get the combs well 

 attacht to the wood, and sealed all around, and also to get a 

 larger yield generally, but for tenderness and fine edible qual- 

 ities only a starter should be used, according to F. Greiner, in 

 Gleanings. The editor replies that with starters more than 

 half the combs will be finisht drone, and these will be more 

 " gobby " eating than comb honey from full sheets of worker 

 foundation. 



Large vs. Small Hives. — Editor Hutchinson, of the Bee- 

 Keepers' Review, thinks the articles written in Gleanings by 

 C. P. Dadant are not entirely relevant, as the discussion as to 

 size of hives has been almost wholly with reference to comb 

 honey production, and the Dadauts run for extracted, for 

 which the size of hive matters little If It's big enough, while 

 for comb honey the line must be sharply drawn between 

 brood and surplus, and to get the right proportion of fine, 

 white honey stored above this line requires skillful and pecu- 

 liar management. 



A Simple Swarm-Catcher. — Besides a spray-pump, Franz 

 Henkel says his apparatus for securing swarms Is a birch- 

 broom tied to the end of a long pole, a piece of comb the size 

 of the hand being fastened among the splints of the broom. 

 When a swarm is about to settle, the broom is held close to it, 

 and the invitation is generally promptly accepted by the bees. 

 If the swarm has already settled, it will move upon the broom 

 if the latter is held steadily against the swarm. If the lower 

 end of the pole is sharpened, it may be thrust into the soft 

 ground of the garden, and thus save holding so long. When 

 the swarm is clustered on the broom, it is lightly sprayed, and 

 it can then be carried to the desired place. — Leipziger Bztg. 



Brown's Honey-Strainer. — A very Ingenious method of 

 separating from extracted honey bits of wax and other mat- 

 ters is given by F. E. Brown, in Gleanings, by means of what 

 he calls a strainer. " This is made of wood or metal, a box 

 14x2'2 inches, and 10 inches deep. It has two partitions 

 which serve as a separator. The first partition Is within four 

 Inches of the end nearest to the extractor. It is made fast to 

 the bottom, but it lacks two inches of coming to the top of the 

 box. The honey falls down into this small compartment, and 

 then it will rise up to the top and run over into the middle 

 room of the strainer. The second partition is placed within 

 four inches of the other end of the box, and it will lack one 

 Inch of coming down to the bottom. Thus the honey, in 

 coming from the extractor, will plunge down with force into 

 the first part, and it will then rise and bring all the wax with 

 It to the top in order to get over into the second space. The 

 ■wax and all foreign substances will remain to float on top In 

 this large or middle space, while the honey will be compelled 

 to run into the third or last space through under the second 

 partition, and then up to the level of the honey In the middle 

 space, where it will find an exit into the tank." 



Xlie Names and Addresses of all your bee- 

 friends, who are not now taking the Bee Journal, are wanted 

 at this office. Send them in, please, when sample copies will 

 be mailed to them. Then you can secure their subscriptions, 

 and earn some of the premiums we are offering. The 

 next few months will be just the time to easily get new sub- 

 scribers. Try it earnestly, at least. 



■White Comb Honey "Wanted.— We are in the 



market for best white comb honey put up in 12 or 2-4 pound 

 single-tier shipping-cases. We would like it to run about 11 

 and 22 pounds, respectively. If you have what you think 

 will suit us, please write, saying how much you have, and at 

 what price you will deliver it in Chicago. Address, George W. 

 York it Co., 118 Michigan St., Chicago, 111. 



LangfStrotli on the Honey-Bee, revised by 

 The Dadants, is a standard, reliable and thoroughly complete 

 work on bee-culture. It contains 520 pages, and is bound 

 elegantly. Every reader of the American Bee Journal should 

 have a copy of this book, as it answers hundreds of questions 

 that arise about bees. We mail it for $1.25, or club it with 

 the Bee Journal for a year— both together for only .^2.00. 



Honey as Food is a neat little 24-page pamphlet 

 especially gotten up with a view to creating a demand to 

 honey among should-be consumers. The forepart of the 

 pamphlet was written by Dr. C. C. Miller, and is devoted to 

 general information concerning honey. The latter part con- 

 sists of recipes for use In cooking and as a medicine. It 

 will be found to be a very effective helper in working up a 

 home market for honey. We furnish them, postpaid, at these 

 prices: A sample for a stamp; 25 copies for SO cents; 50 

 for 50 cents; 100 for 90 cents; 250 for .^2.00; .500 for 

 $b.50. For 25 cents extra we will print your name and ad- 

 dress on the front page, when ordering 100 or more copies at 

 these prices. 



