11 



strong wood, no matter how long it takes ; and, if possible, to get 

 a brown, hard stem as high as the top of the stake at the end of 

 the first year. In November, after the fall of the leaf, cut off all 

 the laterals close to the main cane ; and, if that is slender or un- 

 ripe, cut that back to three buds, and grow a single cane again 

 the next year. If the cane is strong and ripe, cut it off at the 

 top of the pole. Cut off all green wood at the Fall pruning, as 

 it will winter-kill if you do not. In the winter, or late fall, cut 

 the vines loose from the stakes and let them lie upon the ground, 

 so that they can move with the wind and shake off rain and ice. 

 In the spring, tie them up again, and rub out every other eye on 

 the cane ; or, in other words, leave buds enough to get shoots al- 

 ternately, right and left, about nine inches apart ; — the lowest one 

 fifteen to eighteen inches from the ground ; the highest close to 

 the top of the vine. These are spurs for the next year's crop. 

 Keep them pinched in, so that they will not make over two feet 

 each of ripe wood in the season, and cut off any fruit that may 

 set, at once. Let the top shoot grow, without pinching, until 

 September, when it may be broken off at the end. In November, 

 of the second year, cut every other spur back to one bud, and the 

 intervening ones to three buds ; these will fruit the third year, and 

 the single buds will make spurs for next year's bearing. In the 

 month of November, of the third year, cut the spurs which have 

 fruited back to a single bud, and prune the others to three buds, 

 for next year's bearing. The vines are now established, and must 

 be pruned in the same way during their life. Always let the top 

 spur grow as long as it will ; this will prevent the pushing of the 

 next year's fruit buds during the current season ; — an accident 

 which is liable to occur from close, summer pruning. Do not 

 overtop the vines while they are young ; a practice which has in- 

 jured many fine vineyards. When the grapes have set, go through 

 the vineyard and cut out bravely one half of the bunches or even 

 two thirds ; leaving only the largest and finest clusters. The crop 

 will ripen earlier, weigh more and be much finer, if treated in 

 this way. 



The Renewal System, with horizontal arms, for training against 

 fences and buildings and to trellises. — First year. Train the 

 same as in the spur system. In November cut back to eighteen 

 inches, or to the point where you wish to take the arms. — Second 

 year. Let all the buds push, and train the two upper shoots to a 

 pole, or to the trellis, pinching them occasionally to make them 

 stout. Pinch all the other shoots, at two leaves, and keep them 

 soft. This will promote the growth of the main cane, by arresting 

 some of the sap, and thus prevent the vine from getting hide- 

 bound. At the fall pruning, cut back the two canes to three or 

 four feet, each, according to the strength of the vine ; leaving the 



