Feb. 2, 1899. 



AMERICAFn BEti JOUKNAL, 



71 



on the sides as stops so that the foundation will rest on the 

 board while the frame rests on the stops. Put a bunch of 

 the sticks in the heated wax. They will froth up at first 

 because of the air and moisture in the wood. In a little 

 while that will be cookt out and the wax will settle down 

 clear. Then with the pliers lift a stick out of the wax and 

 lay it on the foundation, and with the wet edg-e of the 

 presser press it into the foundation. Being- hot it will melt 

 its way into the foundation, and if prest too hard or too 

 long- may cut the foundation in two. A little experience 

 wili enable you to do it rig-ht. It is perhaps well to heat 

 the wax little more than enough to keep it melted, for if too 

 hot there will not be so good a coating of wax on it, and if 

 you use a stick not coated with wax at all the bees will dig- 

 out the stick. The sticks are put perpendicularly, one about 

 an inch from each end, one in the middle and one on each 

 side of the middle one-half way between it and the end one. 



2. No. 



3. Yes, where propolis is at all plenty. 



4. I don't believe it would make any .serious trouble. 



5. Probably the wood-zinc. 



6. It can. 



7. Make your wood-strips about 5-16 thick, an inch wide 

 or less, having a saw-kerf in each edg-e to receive the zinc. 

 Put tog'-ether so that your honey-board shall be flat on one 

 side and the other side shall have the ends and sides '4 

 thicker than the rest. That will make a bee-space between 

 the honey-boai'd and the super. 



Getting an Italian Queen Early. 



Where can I g'-et a good, cheap, Italian queen ? I want 

 one as early as I can get it. I think I could introduce it in 

 March, or April at least. I got a colony of black bees last 

 spring, but they didn't do well. It wasn't a good honey 

 year, but there is an Italian colony right by the side of mine 

 which g-athered enoug-h honey to nearly winter, and they 

 are about twice as strong. They were started the same 

 time. I got one colony a year ago. and divided it, but in 

 the fall one of them left, and in February the other died, so 

 I had to get another colony last spring. I intend to keep 

 on, all the same, and make a bee-keeper of myself. The 

 American Bee Journal is the only help I have, but it has 

 been enough so far. Maky. 



Ans-vver. — Yes, you mig-ht introduce a queen in March 

 or even in February, but all things considered it is not ad- 

 visable. You'll be as well off if you get your queen in May. 

 probably, rvmning less risk in shipping, and by the time it 

 will be advisable to get a queen you will see queens adver- 

 tised by reliable dealers in this paper. 



Alfalfa or Lucern Van Deusen Self-Spacing Frames. 



1. I have read much in the American Bee Journal of 

 alfalfa being so good a honey-plant in the West, but the 

 bees do not tackle alfalfa in the Northern States or gather 

 honey from it. I was born in Germany, and can remember 

 that almost every farmer had a lucern (alfalfa) field. 

 Twelve years ago I ordered some lucern seed from Milwau- 

 kee. I noticed in the catalog that German lucern was priced 

 differently from American alfalfa or sand lucern, so I think 

 there must be a difference between lucern and alfalfa, for 

 the bees do not visit mj- lucern. 



2. Years ago I used the common hang'ing^ frames, but 

 having much trouble with ■spacing'- and g-etting straight 

 combs. I askt a supply dealer for a self-spacing frame. He 

 showed me one which he called the Van Deusen. This 

 spaced above and below, by means of little irons fastened 

 on each corner. This frame suits me best of all. I have 

 .seen the Hoffman but would not want it. The bees cannot 

 fasten the Van Deusen frame to the hive. What is the 

 reason we do not hear anything in regard to this frame '! 

 and why do bee-keepers not recommend it ? MlCHiG.\>r. 



AxswEKS. — 1. It is likely that the difference is not in 

 kind but in place. In this region I never saw bees on al- 

 falfa, altho it is the same as that farther west. It is not 

 uncommon for an imported article to differ in price from the 

 home product, even when just the same. Bokhara clover 

 seed is imported into this country and sells at a different 

 price from that of sweet clover seed, altho Bokhara and 

 sweet clover are one and the same thing. 



2. The Van Deu.sen spacers have been before the public 

 for some years. Some agree with you in liking- them, while 



others prefer the Hoffman or something else. I know of no 

 special reason why more is not said about them, or why 

 they are not recommended more, unless it be that a larger 

 number have not preferred them. 



Leveling Down Combs. 



What kind of an instrument is used in leveling drawn 

 combs ill sections ? I understand the cells should not be 

 over )'s-iiich in depth when the super is first put on. I can- 

 not understand whj- it is not just as necessary to level down 

 the cells of the extracting-combs after they have been com- 

 pleted in the extractor. If good honey can be obtained by 

 leaving full-depth cells in the extracting-chamber, why not 

 leave deep cells in the super combs ? Mass. 



Answer. — Taylor's comb-leveler is the tool. It costs 

 $1.00. postpaid, SI. 25. The object in leveling is to cut away 

 the edge of the comb that has become darkened. That will 

 explain to you why it is necessary to level sections and not 



(^-■■.-.- ,-.-_,_ GEHERAuVilW 



el; 



l*MP FLUE ', 



77/c Tavlor Comb-Lcveii'r. 



extracting-combs. The comb of the extracting-combs is 

 not taken with the honey, hence there's no need to cut any 

 of it away. Indeed, in most cases it would do no good, for 

 you'd have to cut away all the comb to g'-et rid of the dark 

 part. 



Some have insisted strenuously that the comb of sec- 

 tions should be leveled to '/i of an inch. I don't believe 

 there ever was any good reason for that, and I have always 

 held that all the leveling that was needed was to g-et rid of 

 the darkened part. If the comb is pure white clear out to 

 the edges of the cells, there's no need to cut any away, un- 

 less in rare cases in which the cells are so deep that they 

 would be built fast to the separator. I think this view is 

 now held b}- those who have insi.sted most strongly on the 

 -;'s-inch. 



*-*~»^ 



Preventing After-Swarming. 



I see bj- some of the bee-papers that one of the methods 

 to prevent after-swarming is to place the primary swarm 

 on the stand of the old hive, and remove the latter to a new 

 location. It has also been found advisable to give the sur- 

 plus cases to the new swarm. Now, in removing the surplus 

 cases from the parent colony, is it best to rid them of bees 

 before they are placed on the hive containing- the new 

 swarm, or should the supers be lifted off' with the bees in 

 them ? - Massachusetts. 



Axs-vvER. — In taking the supers from the mother colony 

 to give to the swarm, take bees and all. It's easier, and it's 

 better. But if you do this when the swarm is first hived, 

 there is danger that the queen may take up her abode in the 

 supers unless barred by a queen-excluder. If no queen- 

 exclpder is used, better wait a day or two before putting the 

 supers over the swarm. To make the plan more effective, 

 it is better to put the old close beside the new one. and in 

 about a week move the old hive to a new place. 



