Aug. 10, 1899. 



AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL, 



499 



the super, but cannot return. In doing- this work the 

 smoker is lighted, and with the hive-opener in hand and a 

 few escape-boards we proceed. 



The bees of the first hive to be workt with are given a 

 few whiffs of smoke at the hive-entrance, as we do at all 

 times before opening the hive. With the hive-opener we 

 pry up the super to loosen it, and then lift it off, after giv- 

 ing the bees a few puffs of smoke, and place it one side. 

 We then put the escape board over the brood-chamber, and 

 place the super or supers over this. The bees finding they 

 are shut in, and away from their queen and brood, search 

 for a place of escape, which is thru the escape only. 



All escapes are put on the hives having supers either 

 for extracting or those used in getting comb honey, but we 

 take one or the other in order. That is, the comb honey 

 will all be taken off before beginning on the other, or z'u-f 

 I'ft-sa. In from a few hours to a day the supers will be rid 

 of bees, depending upon the weather and space above the 

 escape-board. 



The supers, when rid of bees, are lifted from the board 

 and taken to the honey-room. The bees at this time should 

 be treated to smoke and kept under control, as the hives 

 are quite apt to be jarred when prying up the super. In 

 this way a large amount of honey may be taken off so 

 quietly that the bees are not aware of the fact, and no ex- 

 citement or robbing caused. 



The escape-boards may be removed as one removes the 

 supers, the bees driven down, and the cover put on the 

 hives, or the supers may all be first removed to the honey- 

 room, and the boards later in the day. With this plan not a 

 frame of honey need be handled in the bee-yard to tempt 

 the industrious bees. 



Before the invention of the bee-escape there was no 

 way to take off honey without demoralizing the bees, unless 

 one waited until cool weather had driven them from the 

 surplus department late in the season. This work is much 

 better done now during the warmer weather, when the bees 

 handle to better advantage, and the work is then out of the 

 way. 



I have tried all the bee-escapes that have been brought 

 out among bee-keepers, and have only found one among the 

 number that workt well, and that is what we now use, as 

 all others have been thrown away as useless. 



At the time of a good honey-flow, either the shake-oft' 

 or escape plan works well, as no robbing will then occur, 

 anj'way. Carroll Co., 111. 



Hunting' Bees in Trees During- a Honey-Flow. 



A SHORT SYMPOSIUM. 



IF L. J. Clark will go along streams of water he will find 

 bees gathering water (if there are any bees in the 

 vicinity) ; then watch the course they go, and it will not 

 be much trouble to find them. Daniel Loy. 



Preble Co., Ohio. 



In answer to L. J. Clark (see page 445), in regard to 

 hunting bees during the honey-flow, I would say, go where 

 you have reason to think the bees are, and find them at 

 work on water. When they leave the water they won't cir- 

 cle, but go straight to the tree. Generally they get water 

 at the nearest point, so if j'ou are a mile from tame bees 

 you may rest assured they are wild. If you don't get the 

 line the first time, wait and the bees will come back to the 

 same place as soon as they can unload. 



It is a very poor season here ; 40 percent loss last win- 

 ter, and very few swarms this season : small honey crop, 

 and poor prospects for any more. H. L. C.\SK. 



Ontario Co., N. Y., July 14. 



Referring to L. J. Clark's call about bee-hunting, I will 

 try to explain to him about my methods. I have traced 

 bees three miles, and have found them in trees. 



First, take a box about the size of a cigar-box (a cigar- 

 box will do) ; cut a hole in the bottom about an inch square, 

 then place two wires thru the box about half way between 

 the bottom and the top, and place the bait on the wire. 

 Then take a glass for a lid, and put it on top of the box. 

 Take the box, and when you see a bee on the blossom, place 

 the hole in the box right over it, then it will go into the 

 box, thinking it can go right up thru. When you have 

 about a dozen in the box take it out in an open field, set it 

 down quietly about four feet above the ground ; watch thru 

 the glass lid till they begin to work on the bait in the box, 

 then lift the glass lid, which will leave them ready for their 



home. Lie right down below the box, so that when the bee 

 starts J'OU can see her circle three or four times. Then she 

 will make a straight line for her home. 



The bait is some fresh honey, with about half fresh 

 water with it ; make it about half water, so it will be nice 

 and thin, almost like water. To about half a pint of bait 

 add about three drops of golden tincture or ether, and I will 

 guarantee any bee to work on this bait in any time of the 

 year. An empty comb is best to put the bait on. I would 

 like to hear from Mr. Clark after giving this a trial. 



Coshocton Co., Ohio. Samuel Varnes. 



I have read the letter of L. J. Clark, on page 445. I do 

 not know whether I can help him any or not. Bees will 

 sometimes work on honey in the afternoon, even when 

 flowers are plenty. I think I would start them in the after- 

 noon, and they would probably work back on the honey in 

 the morning. If he uses comb honey in his boxes, as I un- 

 derstand from his letter, he might try instead an old brood- 

 comb in his box, and use a little extracted honey diluted 

 about one-third with water. 



Bees will not work if caught from buckwheat in the 

 morning ; I do not know whether they will from white 

 clover or not. 



Oil of anise is generally used to call bees, but it is my 

 opinion it is only of use to aid bees in finding the honey 

 when coming back, by its strong odor. Never put oil of 

 anise in the honey or in the box. Bees will leave imme- 

 diately. I have found two bee-trees so far, and without 

 hunting them, either. 



I have caught five swarms in decoy hives set in the 

 woods. Bees have not swarmed here this spring; it was so 

 dry in April, May and June. I will guarantee I can catch 

 20 to 30 swarms of bees in any good year. 



Dutchess Co., N, Y. Geo. T. Record. 



I will describe the way I hunt bees in New Hampshire. 



First, take some strips of lumber 1'^ inches wide, about 

 5/16 thick, and make three boxes 2*4 inches wide, 33+ long, 

 nail a bottom on one. This will be the comb-box. Before 

 nailing the other tvfo together cut two grooves on the in- 

 side of each side-piece of the box, one groove near the top, 

 and one near the bottom ; then cut a piece of glass that 

 will just fit into the top groove, when you nail the box to- 

 gether. When nailed, fit a thin wood slide in the bottom 

 groove — these are the catching-boxes. 



In the comb-box fit a piece of black brood-comb — the 

 old black comb is the best, as it won't soften in the heat of 

 the sun. Take some good granulated sugar and water, 

 equal parts, mix well together, and fill the piece of comb in 

 the comb-box. Get a very small vial of oil of anise, and 

 now you are all ready to start. 



Go where the bees are working on the flowers, set the 

 comb-box on a stump or stake— on anything that will be 

 seen by the bees when they " come back." Don't set it too 

 near the flowers (at this time of year). Then take one of 

 the catching-boxes, draw the slide nearly out. take it in the 

 right hand with glass side up ; when you come up to a 

 flower with a bee on it, put the left hand under the flower, 

 bringing the box down over the liee, and the left hand up 

 under at the same time ; the bee seeing the light thru the 

 glass will fly up against it at once, when you push in the 

 slide, and vou have the bee. Go to the comb-box, put the 

 catching-box on top with the slide side down, then draw the 

 slide, put your hand over the glass to darken it inside, and 

 the bee nine times out of ten will at once begin to fill. You 

 can look in the glass and see if she is loading up all right. 

 If so, raise the catching-box gently, and take it off'; then 

 sit down and watch the bee go ; also note the time, so as to 

 estimate the distance they are from you. 



Be sure to put a little oil of anise on the outside of the 

 comb-bos, so that when a bee comes back she can smell it. 

 She will be sure to go into the box when she comes back, as 

 the smell attracts the attention more than the flowers. 



After a bee has been a few times she will go straight 

 off the box without whirling at all. Then if she is gone so 

 long that you wish to "carry them " and set off again, you 

 will now need your second catching-box. As the bees come 

 back and alight on the comb you must catch them at once, 

 by putting the catching-box over the comb-box. As they 

 fly off to the glass, push in the slide, and you have them. 

 Then take the other catching-box and do the same, and 

 then put the two catching-box slides together, open both 

 slides, and the bees will go into the top one : take the 

 empty one to catch some more off the comb. When you 

 have enough bees, you " go on the line " nearly as far as, 



