In North- West Canada. 163 



followed him inside. On entering, my eyes caught sight of a 

 shelf crowded with an array of bottles labelled " lemonade, soda 

 water," etc., and, as I was parched with thirst, I called for a 

 drink, but soon learned the bottles were all empty ; however, 

 I managed to get some milk, which was very acceptable. I 

 then asked for an early tea, and the proprietor and his wife 

 had a consultation, which resulted in their sending out the 

 servant, a repulsive, lazy Indian squaw, to see if she could get 

 me something to eat at the station. While waiting for my tea, 

 four hungry French immigrants called at the hotel, but neither 

 the proprietor nor myself could answer their questions ; they 

 showed by their gestures they were hungry and thirsty, but 

 the poor fellows had to go empty away. Soon afterwards a 

 couple of teamsters called, and asked for a drink, pointing to 

 the grand display of empty lemonade bottles on the shelf; they, 

 in their turn, were sold like myself, and had to go away thirsty, 

 cursing the hotel and the proprietor at not providing some- 

 thing to drink. I saw I was going to have to rough it at this 

 place, as the whole surroundings indicated indolence and 

 poverty. After waiting an hour, my tea was ready, consisting 

 of dark, dirty-looking bread, wishy-washy tea, and some kind 

 of strange meat unknown to me. I was very hungry, so dared 

 not ask whether it was wolf, dog or racoon, for fear my ap- 

 petite might be spoiled, however, I managed to satisfy my 

 hunger. 



It is a great pity this place is not better provided with ac- 

 commodation. Eaeburn is only thirty -five miles west of 

 Winnipeg, and I fared worse here than at any place I stopped 

 at in the North- West. Long Lake does not possess a house 

 where a clean bed or decent meal can be obtained, and I think 

 it would pay some enterprising Winnipegger to go out there 

 and erect an inn ; it would be patronized by travellers in spring 

 and summer, sportsmen in the fall, and teamsters in the winter, 

 who bring tons of fish to Raeburn station from Lake Mani- 

 toba. 



Putting on my rubber boots, I went down to the lake be- 

 hind the cabin. Long Lake is about ten miles in length and 



