THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 



91 



tmixat and Moxo. 



ANSWKRS BY 



James Heddon, Dowagiac, Mich. 



How to Wear a Bee Veil. 



In response to several, I will saj' 

 that I consider a black all-bobbinet 

 bee veil the best face protector we 

 have. The meshes are roiuid, and 

 the shape and color is best fitted to 

 clear vision. To make one requires 

 a yard of goods. 20 inches wide. AVhen 

 sewed up, the veil will be 20 inches 

 long, 3 feet in circumference, and one 

 foot in diameter. The usual way of 

 attaching this veil to the hat has 

 been to have a cord " run "" into the 

 edge of one end and drawn up to the 

 size of the crown of the hat. "When 

 drawn over, the veil comes out over 

 the rim aud down over the face and 

 inside the coat, vest or shirt collar. 

 I have found that a much better way 

 is to procure a new white chip hat 

 (about 15 to 20 cents is the price), and 

 sew one end of the veil to the rim. 

 This can be done whether the rim is 

 just one foot in diameter or larger ; 

 for if larger it can be sewed to the 

 rim a short distance back from its 

 edge. The wide rim hat gives better 

 shade. "When so used, your hat and 

 veil are always to be found at once, 

 and the veil is practically about 6 

 inches longer than when used in the 

 way first mentioned. 



Thermometers, Straight Combs, etc. 



1. How are thermometers tested V 

 Mine, when tested in salt and snow, 

 marks fp below zero, which is, I am 

 told, S^ wrong. Mine, in the cellar, 

 marks 46^. Xow, if as tested above, 

 it is 8-' too low, should not the real 

 temperature in the cellar be .54°, and 

 not 4C° as it shows ? 



2. If bees in brood-chambers are 

 given starters, say if an inch, will they 

 build straight comb ? or how would it 

 do to put in 3-inch strips ? I ask this 

 as foundation seems to be so scarce 

 and dear. John Yoder. 



Springfield, Out. 



1. This question is somewhat out of 

 my latitude. I have always under- 

 stood that the point zero was the low- 

 est point that could be made artific- 

 ially with ice and salt. It might be 

 best for you to compare your ther- 

 mometer with others, then, even 

 though your test be correct, your ther- 

 mometer may be all right, as compared 

 with thermometers in general, and it 

 is from these that we have taken our 

 cue regarding proper temperature. 



2. A single inch of foundation works 

 splendidly as a guide to straiglit 

 combs. When I used such a strip, I 

 found it best to put it the whole 

 length of the bar, but preferred to have 

 it in 3 pieces separated from each 

 other, about 1-5 of an inch ; this kept 

 it from waving, which it sometimes 

 did, when in continuous strips. I would 

 prefer this to o-inch strips, for the one 

 point of getting straight combs, and 

 should choose it of the two. I believe 

 it pays more than twice over to use 

 full frames of foundation on wires, 

 both for the saving to the bees, and to 

 get rid of drone comb in colonies 

 whose blood you do not wish to per- 

 petuate, and excess of drone-comb 

 everywhere, especially when brood 

 foundation can be bought for 50 cents 

 per pound. 



Moving Bees in Winter. 



On page 384 of the Bee Journal 

 for 1883, Mr. Heddon promised an 

 article on moving bees, giving his 

 method, but so far I have not seen it. 

 I have 75 colonies to move 3 or 4 miles, 

 and would like to move them now on 

 the ice in the river. How shall I do 

 it V D. II. Lisle. 



"Waldron. HI., Jan. 27, 1884. 



When promising an article on re- 

 moving bees, I had reference to mov- 

 ing them short distances, in such 

 manner as to prevent their returning 

 to the old stand. In moving 3 or 4 

 miles no such precaution is needed. 

 You can move them on a sleigh (use 

 "bobbs") by filling the box with 

 straw, or on a common wagon in the 

 same manner. Put in twice as much 

 straw as you think you need, and you 

 will have none too much. If I could 

 have but one, I would rather have 

 straw than springs. I should not move 

 the bees until the weather was such 

 that they could fly immediately after 

 reaching their new location. 



Comb Foundation. 



"Will Mr. Heddon please answer the 

 following : 



1. How long may foundation be 

 made before it Is unfit for use V 



2. Can old foundation be treated so 

 as to make it as good as if fresh made V 



3. Can foundation be pressed into 

 wired frames by hand as good as if 

 done by a press V 



4. How would you press it in by 

 hand V Richard Grinsell. 



Baden, Mo., Jan. 26, 1884. 



1. I think that the fresher founda- 

 tion is, the better, though I have seen 

 that one year old well-handled by the 

 bees, but it seemed to be with more 

 difficulty. 



2. Mr. D. A. Jones suggests dipping 



the sheets in hot water (of course not 

 leaving them there long enough to 

 melt). This may make them appear 

 softer ; in fact, may loosen up the fiber 

 a little, yet I think there has been an 

 evaporation, loss, or drying-down of 

 some of the oils that this method does 

 not re-place. 



3. It cannot be pressed on to the 

 wires as smoothly and perfectly as if 

 done by the press, but it can be done 

 so well that after the bees get through 

 manipulating it, it is in every way as 

 perfect as if done by the machine. 



4. When your frame material is out, 

 and before nailed up, punch holes 

 (centrally) through the top and bot- 

 tom bars about 2 inches apart, and 

 have the outside holes not further 

 from the end bar than one-half or 

 three-fourths of an inch. Use No. 30 

 tinned wire. Now sew the frame, be- 

 ginning in the middle and sewing 

 each way with each end. To fasten 

 the ends I use a small tack, or the 

 nails that nail the bottom-bar may be 

 left a little out. Be careful not to draw 

 the bottom-bar bowing by drawing the 

 wire too tight. Diagonal wires may 

 be put on, but I do not use them, as I 

 find no need for them. To use them, 

 fasten one end to the tack or nail- 

 head, and then go down through the 

 first hole, and through the one nearest 

 the center of the other bar, then up 

 through the other center hole, and 

 fasten this end the same as the first. 

 Now the frame is wired. Next make 

 a lap-board larger each way than your 

 frame is the longest way. Now cut 

 from one-half inch lumber a board 

 that is one-fourth inch smaller each 

 way than the inside measure of your 

 frame. Nail this board securely to the 

 seven-eighths lap-board, and let the 

 grains run cross-ways of each other. 

 This will prevent warping. With a 

 sponge or rag, wet the thin board or 

 form. Have already-cut some sheets 

 of foundation one-eighth less in size 

 than your frame measures inside. 

 Turn up about 3-lG of one edge, and 

 (have the wax sheet warm) with a 

 stiff, broad putty knife, or chisel, 

 mash the turned-up portion to the top- 

 bar (which should not be rough), so 

 that the sheet will hang centrally in 

 the frame. We have a rest fixed for 

 the frame, on our work bench, to hold 

 it while we do the mashing. Next lay 

 the frame and foundation (foundation 

 down) on the lap-board and over the 

 form, and while the sheet is plastic, 

 push the wires down into the base of 

 the cells. This can be done with an 

 eight-penny nail; some use a wheel 



