in digging them up and planting with their 

 roots intact. Comparative shallow planting 

 is a great secret of success, as too deep plant- 

 ing is harmful; but shallow planting is of no 

 use without cultivation, which is done by 

 keeping the surface constantly stirred with 

 the hoe. If you should ever have occasion to 

 choose between the hoe and manure, choose 

 the hoe. 



As growth is usually more vigorous than 

 in colder climates less pruning is necessary. 

 It is an axiom in rose pruning that the more 

 vigorous a plant is, the greater number of 

 shoots should be cut out at the base, and the 

 less should those which are left be shortened. 

 There is another axiom and that is the later 

 you prune the greater the reason for severe 

 pruning. Three principles are aimed at in 

 pruning roses. 



1. To maintain a plant in full health and 

 vigor. 



2. To induce it to assume a form at once 

 agreeable to the eye and advantageous for 

 the development and display of its blossoms. 



3. To secure an abundance of good flowers. 



The different variations in the habit and 

 growth of each variety must be studied as 

 demanding a special method of pruning. As 

 a general rule remove all weakly, malformed 

 and dead shoots from their origin and thin 

 out crowded branches. The Hybrid Perpetual 

 and Hybrid Tea class are benefited by being 

 pruned hard back. Teas require less hard 

 treatment. Generally climbers need their old 

 shoots cut out at the base and the others 

 shortened a bit. They require very little prun- 

 ing after the first year, merely thinning out 

 the old and weak wood. Prune down to six 

 inches of the ground the first season after 



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