planting to encourage new growths from the 

 base, otherwise cut to the ground all but two 

 or three of the strongest shoots, these peg 

 down away from the centre of the plant, after 

 pruning down to the first dormant bud. 

 Climbers occasionally present barren stems, 

 and to obviate this, prune the leaders to differ- 

 ent heights ; cut one say six inches from the 

 ground, another at eighteen inches, and leave 

 another, say, three feet with a good result. 



Usually all laterals should be pruned to two 

 or three eyes. In pruning Ramblers always 

 retain the best long maiden rods. Iri the 

 Wichuraiana type leave the entire length, 

 merely cutting away any wood as it dies back. 

 The Polyantha type should be pruned the same 

 as the other climbers. 



For the operation of pruning a few instru- 

 ments are necessary ; a pair of good secateurs, 

 a strong, sharp pruning knife and a small saw, 

 which is very useful for thick pieces of dead 

 wood. 



Roses enjoy most manure only when estab- 

 lished. Pig, cow and horse manure are best in 

 the order named. When trenching the soil 

 two or three feet deep before planting, use rank 

 manure for heavy soils and well rotted manure 

 for light soils, putting the uppermost of it at 

 least fifteen inches below the surface. Heavy 

 soils may be lightened by fresh horse manure, 

 leaf mould and road scrapings before planting 

 and after they are established. Manure should 

 not be placed about the roots of newly planted 

 roses, a layer of soil should always separate 

 the roots from the manure. Drainage from 

 cow sheds, stables and manure heaps, or liquid 

 made from cow, horse, sheep, fowl and pigeon 

 manure should be used freely during active 

 growth diluted to the colour of weak 

 tea. It is very advantageous to use 



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