wood generally comes away easily leaving the 

 base of the bud level with the bark; but 

 if the inside of the bud appears hollow, a fresh 

 one should be taken; a large number of fail- 

 ures is due to this cause. If the wood does 

 not come out clean the bud is over-ripe and 

 should not be used. The bud should be 

 plump but not advanced in growth and it 

 should be selected from healthy and vigorous 

 growing plants. But although a fully devel- 

 oped plump bud is desirable, this is of less 

 importance than the condition of the shoot, 

 which should not be more than half ripe, with 

 the sap still flowing freely, so that the wood 

 parts easily with the bark. As a rule buds 

 should always be taken from a shoot which 

 has, or has had, a good bloom on it. Some 

 varieties often have long, strong, flowerless 

 shoots, with plenty of good wood buds on 

 them ; if these buds are used there is a strong 

 probability of no flowers being produced the 

 first year. It is safest in all cases not to use 

 the next bud to the bloom. After the bud is 

 prepared it should be kept in water so as to 

 keep it moist, until the stock has been got 

 ready to receive it. A suitable sappy region 

 should now be selected on the stock and all 

 prickles and leaves removed. A cut in the 

 shape of a T must now be made not deeper 

 than the bark and the sides slightly loosened 

 with the ivory end of the budding knife, after 

 which the bud must be inserted and bound up. 

 If after a short time the leaf stalk drops off, 

 it is a sign that the operation has been suc- 

 cessful, if on the contrary it adheres, it is 

 very often a sign that the bud is dying. 



The buds put forth new growth within a 

 fortnight and the binding should be loosened 

 and finally removed. When the bud begins to 

 break the whole of the stock plant about three 

 inches above the bud should be cut off, and 



14 



