PROPAGATING HUCKLEBERRIES 493 



for the seed than boxes, as there is less danger from fungi, but 

 after the first transplanting boxes may be used. As soon as the 

 fruit is received, it should be macerated in water for several 

 days, so as to separate it from the pulp, and then washed clean. 

 If early in the season, seeds of the early varieties may be sown 

 at once, and will come up in a few weeks, but as the plants will 

 make little growth, they will need careful handling to keep them 

 over the first winter. It is better to wash out the seed and mix 

 with fine, moist sand, and keep in a cool pit or frame until the 

 days begin to lengthen, say about the middle of January. Then 

 prepare the seed pans or pots and insure free drainage by using 

 sphagnum or coarse sif tings of peat. Firm the soil well and 

 give a gentle watering with a fine hose. When the soil has set- 

 tled, scatter the seeds thickly and evenly over the surface, and 

 give the lightest, possible covering. Then add a layer of fine 

 sphagnum, syringe lightly, and set the plants in a temperature of 

 60° to 65°. After sowing, if the seed is not allowed to become 

 dry, it will usually come up in from five to six weeks, although I 

 have known it to lie in the ground a year and then germinate. 

 The pans should be examined now and then, and as soon as the 

 seed shows signs of germination the coarsest of the moss should 

 be removed. When the plants have made the first rough leaf, 

 they should be pricked off thickly in shallow boxes and fresh 

 soil, prepared and drained as for seed. They should be syringed 

 every day and kept growing in a high temperature and moist 

 atmosphere. As soon as they have covered the ground they 

 should be again transplanted. After the third pricking out, if 

 everything has been carefully attended to, they will be growing 

 strongly, and will need more air and less moisture, to harden 

 them off gradually. The frequent transplanting in fresh soil each 

 time keeps the plants from damping off and encourages good 

 root-growth. About the first of September they can be removed 

 to a coldframe or pit in some sheltered situation, where they 

 should have plenty of air every pleasant day, but should be cov- 

 ered at night to keep them from frost as long as possible, so that 

 they may become ripened before going into winter quarters. As 

 winter sets in, they should be covered with moss and shutters, 

 and will only need airing once or twice a month for a few hours 

 to guard against fungus, which will start even in a coldframe if 

 kept long without air. About the first of May they can be 

 planted in prepared beds of peaty soil or a light, sandy soil of 

 good depth. If dry weather sets in they will require a good syr- 

 inging toward evening, as the plants are not deeply rooted yet, 

 and delicate rootlets are soon destroyed if allowed to dry. After 

 the middle of August the syringing may be discontinued, so that 

 the plants may ripen well. When freezing weather comes, the 



