330 THE COMPLETE GRAZIER. BOOK n. 



his house with cheese of such singularly superior quality, that it came 

 into demand beyond the consumption of the house, and was sold for as 

 much as half-a-crown a pound. 1 It thus acquired the name of Stilton 

 Cheese ; but the mode of making it having been soon discovered, it is 

 now generally manufactured through all the neighbouring counties, and 

 the sale is no longer confined to that place. A great deal of imitation 

 Stilton cheese comes to market, which, though good, is of a very infe- 

 rior quality to the real Stilton. Its richness depends both on the breed 

 of cows employed, and the quality of the pasture on which they are fed, 

 but especially upon the quantity of cream used in the manufacture of 

 it ; for, unless a large portion of this is added to the milk, the cheese 

 will be deficient in the essential qualities for which it is celebrated. 



For the making of Stilton cheese it is essential that the milk be that 

 of cows fed on good old grass pastures which ought to have a clay 

 subsoil supplemented, it may be, by a little cake, say, about 2 Ib. 

 per cow per day. It is not advisable to attempt Siltons at all on a 

 ver}^ poor pasture, whilst a very rich pasture should be avoided by all 

 but the most expert cheese-makers. A true Stilton, it is well to 

 remember, is not made from unskimmed milk only, but has a certain 

 amount of cream added to it. 



The evening's milk is cooled to 65 F. at the time of milking, by 

 means of Laurence's refrigerator, and set until morning in a tin vessel 

 8 inches deep, 28 inches wide, and 40 inches long, having a hole in 

 the bottom closed with a plug, the stem of which is long enough to 

 stand above the milk when the vessel is full. This must rest on a 

 wood frame 18 inches high, to admit of a bucket being placed 

 underneath in which to draw off the milk. 



In the morning draw off one-sixth of the milk through the plughole 

 and put it out of the way (this should not be put in the setting-pan) ; 

 then draw off a tin bucket full and immerse it in hot water till it is 

 raised to 110 F., stirring occasionally to prevent skimming on the 

 top. Pour it in the setting-pan, draw off another bucketful, and treat 

 in the same way until the vessel is empty. The cream which is left 



1 In "Marshall's Rural Economy of the Midlands." published in 1790,' it is stated 

 (2nd edit. vol. i. p. 320) :" Leicestershire is at present celebrated for its cream cheese, 

 known by the name of Stilton cheese. This species of cheese may be said to be a modern 

 produce of the Midland district. Mrs. Paulet, of Wymondham, in the Melton quarter of 

 Leicestershire, the first maker of Stilton cheese, is still [1790] living. Mrs. P., being a 

 relation or acquaintance of the well-known Cooper Thornhill, who formerly kept the Bell at 

 Stilton (in Huntingdonshire, on the great North road from London to Edinburgh), furnished 

 his hoiise with cream cheese ; which, being of singularly fine quality, was coveted by his 

 customers; and, through the assistance of Mrs. P., his customers were gratified, at the 

 expense of half-a-crown a pound, with cream cheese of a superior quality, but of what 

 county was not publicly known. Hence it obtained, of course, the name of Stilton cheese. 

 At length, however, the place of produce was discovered, and the art of producing it learnt, 

 by other dairywomen in the neighbourhood. Dalby first .took the lead ; but it is now made 

 in almost every village in that quarter of Leicestershire, as well as in the neighbouring 

 villages of Rutlandshire. Many tons are made every year. Dalby is said to pay its rent 

 from this produce only. Thus, from a mere circumstance, the produce of an extent of 

 country is changed ; and, in this case, very profitably. The sale is no longer confined to 

 Stilton ; every innkeeper within fifteen or twenty miles of the district of manufacture is a 

 dealer in Stilton cheese. The price at present is tenpence a pound to the maker, and a 

 shilling to the consumer, who takes it at the maker's weight." 



