CHAP. VI. 



OLEOMARGARINE. 



339 



" From all we have been able to learn concerning oleomargarine, we 

 have seen nothing as yet that would seem to prove that it is unclean 

 or unwholesome ; and as a further proof of our confidence that this is 

 so, we ma,y add that for several months past we have been using freely 

 oleomargarine cheese on our table, and find it not only very palatable 

 but wholesome. We believe/ that all foods, however, should be sold 

 under their proper name, ana so of oleomargarine cheese ; and while 

 there may be nothing in the flavour or texture to distinguish it from 

 other cheese, it is just and proper that the consumer should know what 

 he is buying, and thus, if he have prejudices against any particular 

 kind of food, he may have full liberty to avoid it." 



It is none the less true that the reputation of American cheese in 

 England has suffered most seriously on account of this imitation article, 

 and that the loss inflicted on American dairy farmers in this way is 

 incalculable. It has been rumoured that oleomargarine cheese has 

 been made in a factory in one of the southern counties of England. 

 If the rumour be true we may venture to hope that the practice will be 

 discontinued, or else English cheese will suffer, as American has done, 

 in that popular form of reputation whi'ch makes the sale. 



From a report on the dairying industry of the United States, which 

 was circulated at the Paris Exhibition, 1889, we take the subjoined 

 interesting details : As regards external trade, statistics show that 

 the quantity of butter exported is undergoing a constant and rapid 

 decrease, amounting for the entire Union to as much as 62 per cent, in 

 the six years, 1883 to 1888. This shows that the States are depending 

 less and less upon foreign demand. Another significant fact is the 

 almost complete suppression of oleomargarine. The trade in this 

 substance was enormous at the time of the passing of the law against 

 it in November, 1886, and it is largely due to the efforts of a com- 

 mission appointed to ensure strict compliance with the law that the 

 oleomargarine industry has been almost ruined in so short a time. 

 Seven-eighths of all the dairy produce exported by the United States is 

 from the State of New York. The total value of the dairy produce of 

 the entire Union for 1888 was estimated at about 76,000,OOOZ. sterling, 

 whilst the total value of the dairy products sold upon the New York 

 market during the same year was only 8| millions sterling, or a ninth 

 of the total produce. The development of the cheese industry of the 

 United States dates virtually from the first establishment of butter 

 factories rather less than thirty years ago. Most of those now existing 

 are worked upon the co-operative system. The great bulk of the 

 cheese is of the kind known as American Cheddar. This make is 

 cylindrical, flat, from 45 Ib. to 90 Ib. in weight, about 18 or 19 inches 

 in diameter, and 6 inches deep. There is also the Young America, 

 which has the same shape as the Cheddar ; but is so much smaller 

 that it is possible to pack five Young Americas in a box which would 

 only hold one American Cheddar. Fancy cheese is not made, save 

 on a very limited scale ; but Limburger, Stilton, Edam, Pineapple, 

 Neufchatel, Swiss, or cream cheeses are variously produced in different 

 localities. The American ideal of a good dairy cow is an animal of 



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