PRUNING ROSES 105 



jured, and worn-out shoots, the Austrian Briers should 

 not be touched at all with the knife. 



Scotch Briers. — These require similar treatment to 

 the Austrian Briers. 



Hybrid Sweet-briers. — The Sweet-briers need no 

 spring pruning at all ; but in July, after flowering, it 

 will be well to cut out some of the older shoots where 

 crowded, in order to give the younger ones a chance 

 of making better growth. 



Pompon. — The free -flowering miniature Pompon 

 Roses should have their shoots well thinned out, and 

 those left shortened one-half their length. 



Rugosa or Japanese Roses. — This hardy section re- 

 quires but little pruning. Some of the old and 

 crowded shoots should be entirely removed, and 

 the younger growths either tied in or moderately 

 shortened. 



Banksia. — The pruning of this particular class of 

 Rose differs somewhat from that of nearly all the 

 climbers in that they require but little thinning. After 

 flowering, the strong shoots of the present year's 

 growth not required to furnish the plant should be 

 removed, and the rest of them tied in and slightly 

 shortened. Care should be taken not to cut away 

 the twiggy growths, as the flowers are borne on these 

 laterals. 



Gallica or French Roses. — Only the striped varieties 

 in this class are now grown. They should be pruned 

 in the same way as recommended for the Provence 

 Roses. 



Single-flowered Roses. — As these belong to so many 



