23i THE GRAPE. 



as will enable the inexperienced to make the first start correctly, pre- 

 mising that once interested and engaged in the subject, disposition 

 will be found, freely to avail himself of all works yet issued devoted 

 to the subject. 



Propagation. By Seed. This course is only pursued where intend- 

 ed to originate a new variety. At this time, large offers of premium 

 are circulated in the journals of the day for the production of a 

 hardy grape, surpassing the Catawba as a wine grape. Fertilizing 

 some variety of the vitis vinefera with pollen ofvitis labrusca, or vice 

 versa, will be the course to pursue with any expectation of success ; 

 the seed so fertilized, gathered carefully and sown in rich vegetable 

 mould. Cultivation of our wild grapes only increases the size with- 

 out ameliorating their character. 



By Cuttings. These are taken from the strongest vines of the 

 last year's growth, cut to a length, embracing three or four buds, ac- 

 cording as the joints are long or short of the variety ; where possi- 

 ble, a little piece of the old wood left on the lower end is preferred. 

 These being made in the fall, when pruning the vines, are laid away 

 in bundles in a cool cellar until spring ; when, as soon as the ground 

 is ready, they should be soaked or swollen in a tub of water for four 

 or five days, or until the buds become fully swollen. They are 

 then planted in rows, if in' the nursery, by bending into nearly the 

 form of ;i- half circle, as represented by fig., which shows the cutting 

 as it appears in about one month from plant- 

 ing. By this, it is seen that the upper bud is 

 covered nearly an inch : in clayey soils, or 

 those retentive of moisture, the upper bud 

 should be just even with the soil. The rows, 

 in nursery, should be three feet apart, and the 

 plants one foot distant each in the row. This 

 is the best and most successful mode of growing the grape vine. 

 The earth should be pressed firmly at the base of the cutting, and 

 left light and loose at top. 



By Grafting. The best season to perform this operation is when 

 the leaves are about half grown. Earlier, the sap is very abundant, 

 and at same time watery, and grafts do not succeed well. Whip 

 grafting, as it is termed, is best ; or, if stock and graft are near of 

 size, saddle grafting. The graft should have been cut early in the 

 season, before any flow of sap or swelling of buds, and have been 

 kept in a cool yet moist place. The point on the stock at which it 

 is best done, is at or near the ground, and, after insertion, earth up a 

 small mound around it, to protect from change of temperature, sun, 

 &c. If the operation be performed farther up on the stalk, wrapping 



