BOOK I. SOIL. 461 



complete kitchen-garden ; not, indeed, because many esculent plants require more than 

 eighteen inches' depth of good earth, in order to flourish in perfection ; nor that even 

 fruit-trees generally will not thrive for a considerable course of time in a suitable soil, 

 full two feet in depth, although three feet on their account is better; but, in order that 

 the gardener may have it in his power to give rest to alternate portions of the soil, with- 

 out keeping the surface out of crop, by trenching in successive years to different depths, 

 so as to bring any given layer, measuring a spit in thickness, by turns to the bottom, the 

 middle, and the surface, in proportion as the natural soil is unfavorable, it should 

 receive improvement, till it be gradually brought to the desired state. Where some- 

 thing intractable must be taken away, as in the case of a very stony bed, let the ground 

 be trenched, and thp larger stones screened or raked out : ameliorate the residue 

 by such earths, manures, and composts as its defects may require. To give heart to 

 excessively light, sandy, and unstable ground, incorporate with it substantial loam and 

 well rotted dung. To correct a cold stubborn clay , add drift sand, shell marl, sea- 

 weed, warm light earth, and well-rotted dung. To qualify soot for application in a 

 garden, mix a thirty-sixth part with a heap of compost. If the soil has been rendered 

 cold and wet by the passage and lodgment of water, it is requisite to have the ground 

 effectually drained." (Prnct. Gard.\).2.) 



2412. The soil that suits general cultivation best is a loam, rather the red than the black, 

 Marshall observes ; " but there are good soils of various colors, and this must be as it 

 happens ; the worst soil is a cold heavy clay, and the next a light sand ; a moderate 

 clay, however, is better than a very light soil, though not so pleasant to work. If the 

 soil is not good, i. e. too poor, too strong, or too light, it is to be carefully improved 

 without delay. Let it first, at least, be thoroughly broken, and cleaned of all rubbish, to 

 a regular level depth at bottom as well as top, so as to give about eighteen inches of 

 working mould, if the good soil will admit of it ; none that is bad should be thrown up 

 for use, but rather moved away. This rule of bottom-levelling is particularly neces- 

 sary when there is clay below, as it will secretly hold up wet, which should not stand in 

 any part of the garden. When a piece of ground is cleared of roots, weeds, stones, &c. 

 it would be of advantage to have the whole thrown into two-feet wide trenches, and lie 

 thus as long as conveniently may be. The ground cannot be too well prepared ; for 

 when this business is not performed to the bottom at first, it is often neglected, and may 

 not be conveniently done afterwards ; so it happens, that barely a spade's depth (or less) 

 is too often thought sufficient to go on with. There is this great advantage of a deep 

 staple, that in the cultivation of it the bottom may be brought to the top every other year, 

 by double-trenching ; and being thus renewed, less dung will do, and sweeter vegetables 

 be grown. Tap-rooted things, as carrots and parsneps, require a good depth of soil." 

 (Introd. to Card. p. 28.) 



2413. The soil of a new garden should be two or three feet dee}), according to Forsyth, 

 " but if deeper the better, of a mellow pliable nature, and of a moderate dry quality ; 

 and if the ground should have an uneven surface, by no means attempt to level it, for by 

 that unevenness, and any little difference there may be in the quality, you will have a 

 greater variety of soil adapted to different crops. The best soil for a garden is a rich 

 mellow loam ; and the worst, a stiff heavy clay. A light sand is also a very unfit soil 

 for a garden. Sea-coal ashes, or the cleanings of streets and ditches, will be found very 

 proper to mix with a strong soil ; and if the ground should be cold, a large quantity of 

 coal-ashes, sea-sand, or rotten vegetables should be laid upon it, in order to meliorate 

 and loosen the soil, and render it easy to work. Lime-rubbish, or light sandy earth 

 from fields and commons, will also be found of great service to stiff clayey ground. If 

 the soil be light and warm, rotten neat's dung is the best dressing that you can give it. 

 If horse-dung be ever used, it must be completely rotted, otherwise it will burn up the 

 crop the first hot weather." (Tr. on Fr. Trees, p. 290.) 



2414. Different soils are required in ths same garden. This is Nicol's opinion, who has 

 had more experience in the formation of gardens than any of the authors from whom we 

 are quoting ; his remarks " on soils, and how to improve them," merit every attention, 

 and will be duly valued by those who have seen any of the excellent kitchen-gardens he 

 has formed in Fifeshire, Perthshire, and other northern counties. It is a happy circum- 

 stance, he says, " that in many instances we meet with different soils in the same acre." 

 In the same garden they should never be wanting ; and where nature (or natural causes) 

 has been deficient, recourse must be had to art ; inasmuch as the variety of fruits and 

 vegetables to be cultivated require different soils to produce them in perfection. It 

 would be absurd, however, to imagine, that for every particular vegetable there is to be a 

 particular soil prepared. 



2415. The varieties of soil in any gar den may, with propriety, be confined to the following : Strong 

 clayey loam, light sandy loam (wh'ich are the two grand objects), a composition of one fourth strong with 

 three fourths light loam, half strong and half light, and one fourth light and three fourths strong. II hesc, 

 by a proper treatment, and with the proper application of manures, may be rendered prouuctive of any 

 of the known and commonly cultivated vegetables in the highest degree of perfection. 



