462 PRACTICE OF GARDENING. PART III. 



2416. In order to improve a soil, we must be guided much by its nature, so as, if possible, to render ft ser- 

 viceable for general purposes. And hence our duty is to endeavour to hit on that happy medium which suits 

 the generality of esculents, in the formation or improvement of the soil in the kitchen-garden. Such a 

 soil should be sufficiently tenacious to adhere to the roots of plants, though not so much so as to be bind- 

 ing, which would certainly retard their progress and extension in quest of food. Hence a loam of a 

 middle texture, rather inclining to sand, may be considered as the most suitable soil for the purpose here 

 in view, and that on a double account, viz. the greater part of the valuable kinds of kitchen-vegetables 

 delight in such soil, and it is worked at less expense than a stiff' one ; neither in severe droughts is it apt 

 to crack or be parched, nor in hard frosts is it so apt to throw out tender plants or seeds. 



2417. If soils be too strong, the tender roots of plants push weakly in them, sicken, canker, and perish ; and 

 if a soil be too light, and if it be poor withal, plants deposited in it will push their roots far, and in vain, in 

 quest of that stability and nutriment which is necessary and essential to their support. So that if the butt 

 of our aim be perfection in the production of wholesome and well matured vegetables, we must put aside 

 careless indifference in the formation of a proper soil, nor trust entirely to the force of dungs, were they 

 even to be had in the greatest plenty ; for dungs, by too free an application, have an effect on the quality 

 of esculents not altogether salutary. Wherefore, that our efforts may be attended with success, let us 

 bestow a moderate and prudent expense in the first outset, on composing or so improving the soil to be 

 appropriated to this purpose, as that, in our best judgment, it may fully answer the intention. 



2418. Where the bottom is ivet and the sub-soil of a cankering nature, it may be improved by judicious drain- 

 ing; where the soil is stubborn, by the addition of small gravel, sea-sand, wherein is a considerable quantity 

 of small pebbles and shells, coal-as'hes, lime, gravel, pounded brick-bats, brick-kiln ashes, &c.,and, aboveall, 

 by being carefully laid up in ridges in the winter months, and, indeed, at all times when not in crop, in 

 such a manner as to give the greatest extent of surface for the weather to act upon ; where the soil is a 

 poor sand, or gravel, by the addition of clay, or strong clayey loam, scourings of ditches which run 

 through a clayey sub-soil, pond-mud in a like situation, or scrapings of roads which lie in a clayey 

 district, &c. 



2419. Soils that abound with metallic substances, and which generally make them appear of an iron color, 

 are termed fox bent or till These substances are often found to be intimately mixed, or rather consoli- 

 dated with the soil, in considerable masses, which are adhesive and very ponderous. Such soils are the 

 most unfavorable to vegetation of any, and are quite ineligible for the purpose here in view, without 

 being much improved. For this purpose, lime will be found the most serviceable of all things, if judici- 

 ously applied, and the soil be frequently turned over by digging or trenching, so as that the soil and the 

 lime may be intimately mixed together, and that the atmosphere may have full effect upon them ; for 

 without this, the lime will not operate so effectually, nor will the tilly particles of the soil be divided or 

 meliorated so well It may seem unnecessary to observe, that, according to the quantity of irony matter 

 contained in the soil, lime will be required to reduce it. In order to ascertain this quantity, a magnet 

 will be found useful, and one of the masses being calcined, and then reduced to a powder, "the magnet 

 will separate the irony particles from the soil, showing the proportion of iron and of earth. Thus we may 

 fertilise the soil, taking for the extremes in ordinary cases, and supposing the lime of a middling quality, 

 150 and 400 Winchester bushels an acre ; applying the lime in a quick or powdered state, and properly 

 working the soil, being careful, in the first place, to drain it of superabundant moisture. 



2420. Ridging up of soil, as above hinted at, has the happiest effect, especially for stiff soils, and should 

 never be omitted when the ground is not under crop. In dead sandy loams also, and in cankering gravels, 

 it is of incalculable advantage, and greatly meliorates them. For it is a fact proved by experience, that 

 exposing soil to the sun's rays in part, by throwing it into a heap, whereby it is also partly shaded, and 

 trenching it once a month, or in two months, will sooner restore it to fertility than any other process, 

 exclusively of adding fresh matter. And thus, if any ingredient noxious to vegetation abound in the 

 soil, it may be expelled, or be exhaled by the action of the atmosphere, more particularly if the soil 

 undergo a summer and also a winter fallow. In the latter case, however, care should be taken to have 

 the surface encrusted by frost, as often as possible, by turning it, and giving it a new surface each succeed- 

 ing thaw. (Gard. Kalend, p. 19.) 



2421. The soil intended for a garden may be known by its productions. " In selecting 

 ground for a garden," Neill observes, " the plants growing naturally on the surface 

 should be noted, as from these a pretty correct opinion may be formed of the qualities of 

 the soil. The sub-soil should also be examined. If this be radically bad, such as an iron 

 till mixed with gravel, no draining, trenching, or manuring will ever prove an effectual 

 remedy ; if, on the contrary, the sub-soil be tolerably good, the surface may be greatly 

 meliorated by these means. In every garden two varieties of soil are wanted, a strong 

 and a light one, or, in other words, a clayey loam and a sandy loam ; different plants 

 requiring these respective kinds. For the general soil, a loam of middling quality, 

 but partaking rather of the sandy than the clayey, is accounted the best." (Ed. Encyc. 

 art. Hort.} 



2422. General practice. It appears to be generally agreed on by practical men, that 

 there ought to be between two and a half and four feet of good soil over the whole sur- 

 face of the kitchen-garden. This depth will rarely be found to exist naturally ; or, if it 

 does in some places, it will be deficient in others. The proper heights for the borders and 

 compartments being fixed on, and the whole thoroughly drained, the next thing is to trench 

 the soil to the proper depth from the level or levels of the intended surface, whether these 

 run under or over the present surface, removing all unfavorable sub-soil, either to such 

 hollows within the ring-fence of the garden as require to be filled up to a greater depth 

 than that fixed on for the good soil ; or, what is preferable, placing it without the 

 garden. This done, the next thing is to introduce as much good soil as will raise the 

 surface to the thickness required. The strongness or lightness of this additional soil 

 must depend on the nature of that already there, and on the object in view. In com- 

 plete gardens, it may be desirable to have three qualities of soil, viz. a strong loam or 

 tight loam, and a loam of medium quality ; the latter occupying the borders and about 

 half of the compartments. The soils introduced therefore must be such as, with what is na- 

 turally there, will effect these objects. If, for example, the local soil is every where light 

 or sandy, then one part, say that destined for strong loam, should receive as much of 

 clayey loam as will bring it to the temperament desired ; that for medium loam a lesser 

 portion, with as much light earth as will bring it to the required depth : and if the 



