KALENDARIAL INDEX. 



116T 



Fourth week : various plants, especially annuals, 

 continue in flower; leaves of marsh-elder (Sam- 

 bucus cbulus), of a line pink ; of stag's-horn sumach, 

 of a purplish red ; of the American oaks, of fine 

 shades of yellow, orange, red, and purple. 



3. Kitchen-garden. Culinary veget- 

 ables. 



Sow (2071.) small salads, lettuces, and radishes 

 in the first week. If mild weather continues 

 they will come in about Christmas. Mazagan 

 beans, and hotspur or frame-peas (3601.), in the 

 third or last week, to see if they will stand the 

 winter. ('5616.) 



To save seed. Transplant cabbage, savoy, 

 beet, parsnep, carrot, turnip, bulbing and Welsh 

 onion. Mark what is said (3508. and 3537.) as to 

 the danger of bastardy among the crucifera? family. 

 (3592.) 



Protect all newly risen annuals, and newly depo- 

 sited seeds, as also parsley on the approach of 

 frost. (2206.) 



Propagate (1985.) the alliaceous tribe and culinary 

 perennials. 



Transplant (2079.) endive and lettuce on warm 

 borders, and cabbages in close rows or in beds, to 

 remain in that state till wanted as plants in spring. 

 Cauliflowers in the last week, to receive the pro- 

 tection of frames. (3545.) 



Routine culture. Earth up and stir the surface 

 only in fine dry weather. Hoe, rake, thin, weed, 

 and dress off all beds of winter crops. Protect cau- 

 liflowers from heavy rains by breaking a large leaf 

 and folding it over the flower. As crops are cleared, 

 dig and trench the vacant ground, 

 i Take up (2290.) potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, 

 beet, parsnep, salsify, scorzonera, skirret, tap-rooted 

 parsley, and horse-radish of two summers' growth. 

 Preserve them in dry sand. 



Destroy insects. (2280.) 



Root-cellar. See that this is perfectly dry, and that 

 abundance of sand is laid over the roots. 



Store-room. Finish cleaning and putting up seeds, 

 and see that all you have are in a good state, and 

 not attacked by vermin. (1704.) 



4. Hardy fruit department. 



Plant (2077.) all sorts of hardy fruit-trees as soon 

 as the leaves have dropped off; but not before, as 

 some practise ; for in this state neither their shoots 

 nor roots are ripe. Give ample waterings after 

 planting. 



Protect (2206.) fig-trees as soon as their leaves 

 have fallen. Shield late grapes from frost by mat- 

 ting. Immerse pots containing plants intended to 

 be forced, into dry old tan .or ashes to save their 

 roots from frost. 



Prune (2110.) all sorts of fruit-trees excepting the 

 raspberry, elder, and fig, which being trees of much 

 pith, or medulla, are apt to die back from the point 

 of section-cut place, when pruned at this season, 

 and are therefore better left till spring. 



Routine culture.. Prepare ground for new plant- 

 ations. Dig and .ridge up where the trees are 

 already pruned. Winter-dress strawberry-beds. 



Take (2290.1 grapes, apples, pears, and other 

 fruits. 



Fruit-room. (2298.) Lay all fruits first here till 

 thoroughly dried, and then barrel up the longest 

 keepers, and remove them to the fruit-cellar. 



5. Culinary hot-house department. 



* Glass case without artificial heat. (2686) Plant 

 lettuces and cauliflowers under frames, to stand the 

 winter. Sow small salads in the second week, and 

 last fortnight under frames or hand-glasses. 



Hot-beds and pits. (2678.) Keep up the declining 

 heat of such beds as have not yet ripened off their 

 crops. Dress those which have done bearing, and 

 prick in lettuce or cauliflower plants. Prepare 

 mint and other herbs for forcing, by putting them 

 in pots or boxes. Get up mushroom-beds if not 

 done in September. Plants pine-suckers in the open 

 bed or pit, as they are taken off. Cover well at 

 nights. (2206.) 



Pinery. This is a general time for shifting and 

 renewing the bark-bed. Do not put the plants into 

 very large pots, as they will not grow much in win- 

 ter. Till the last week of the month your plants 

 will grow rapidly. (2697.) 



Forcing-houses. (2940.) Prune and in general 

 deanse and repair the houses and flues, mend 



broken glass, and paint the whole when necessarv. 



(2695.) 



6. Flower-garden. Open ground de- 

 partment. 



Sow (2071.) annuals in pots, for prolongation, in 

 cold frames and pits, and some of the hardier sorts 

 in warm borders, to come in early next spring, if 

 the winter should prove mild. The sorts fit for 

 this are larkspur, adonis, belvedere, pansy, persi- 

 caria, annual stock, and strawberry blite. 



Propagate (1985.), but chiefly at this season by 

 dividing the root, as of daisies and of other edging 

 plants, irises, &c. 



Plant most of the border-bulbs about the end of 

 this month ; and you may even plant florists' ane- 

 mones in properly prepared beds. (2077.) 



Transplant (2079.) biennials and perennials, in the 

 flower-nursery, to stand till the spring. Strong 

 plants may be moved where they are finally to 

 remain. (6490. and 6505.) 



Protect (2206.) auriculas, carnations, and other 

 florists' flowers from heavy rains by mats and hoops, 

 or glass frames. Begin at the end of the month 

 to remove dahlia roots to be dried in an open shed, 

 and then carried to the store-room. 



Routine culture as in last month. Prepare com- 

 posts. Stir the ground only in dry weather. If the 

 season has been very dry, flower-borders may be 

 dug over about the end of the month. Attend, 

 above all things, to neatness. Do not trust to 

 any kalendar for directions in this, or any point, 

 but endeavor to bring your own brain into work, 

 and try and look at your works with the eye 

 of a critic arttt an enemy, or even of a stranger. 



7. Flower-garden. Hot-house depart- 

 ment. 



Glass case without artificial heat. (2686.) Begin 

 about the middle of the month to fill frames and 

 pits with pots of mignonette, stocks, &c. for pro- 

 longation through the winter. 



Hot-beds and pits. (2678.) Roses which have been 

 some time in a state of hybernation and in the 

 shade, may now be put in bottom heat, as may 

 hyacinths and some other bulbs. Water-glasses 

 may now be brought into use. Observe, in the first 

 place, to plant the bulbs in earth for a week or fort- 

 flight, which will make them strike roots more 

 freely, and then take them up and put them in the 

 water-glasses. Force them forward a week or two 

 in frames, before you remove them to the drawing- 

 room. Continue to plant some every fortnight for 

 succession. (6502.) 



Green-house. (6211.) Replace all your plants, if 

 you have not already done so. All your winter's 

 credit depends on the style in which you do this : 

 give air night and day, unless the thermometer drop 

 to 35 degrees. Water sparingly. (6211. to 6213.) 



Dry-stove. (6176.) Apply fires towards the end 

 of the night, so as to keep a medium temperature 

 with fire-heat of 46 or 48 degrees. Arrange the 

 plants for the winter. Pot and set in bulbs of most 

 sorts. 



Bark, or moist stove. Lessen your temperature 

 by degrees ; and also your air and water. A good 

 medium heat for this month will be 70 degrees, 

 which will require fire-heat, even if the bark-bed is 

 in full force. (6214. to 6216.) 



8. Pleasure-ground and shrubbery. 

 Plant (2077.) all the hardier trees and shrubs 



where the ground is not apt to be rendered very 

 wet during winter : very delicate sorts leave till 

 spring. This is the best season for planting. 



Prune (2110.) evergreens; but finish, if possible, 

 in the beginning of the month. Deciduous sorts as 

 soon as the leaves fall. 



Routine culture. Clear away all refuse, weeds, 

 and decayed twigs. Roll, mow, sweep, hoe, weed, 

 and remove moss and worm-casts. 



Form and repair lawns as bejore. (2100. and 2101.) 



9. Trees. Nursery department. 



Fruit-trees. Sow for stocks as directed for last 

 month. The plum, cherry, almond, medlar, apple, 

 pear, quince, barberry, service-tree, walnut, filbert, 

 and common hazel-nut, may now be sown to greater 

 advantage than in spring, provided you can keep 

 the vermin from them during winter. Lay the 



