218 TEXTILE FIBRES. 



HAT AND FUR FELTING FIBRES. 



Introduction. The animal textile fibres used in the processes of 

 Hat manufacture include those of wool, fur, and silk. 



The microscopical structure of each group of the above fibres has 

 a typical character by which they can be distinguished one from 

 another. 



The wool and fur fibres are essential in the making of felt and fur 

 hat bodies and brims, but these are often charged with foreign substances, 

 which occur mainly in the wool. These foreign bodies are the leafy 

 spines and burs of Xantliium spinosum, one of the Composite, and the 

 hooked or uncinate spines on the spiral legumes of different species of 

 Medicago, belonging to the Pea family or Leguminosx. 



Calico, felt, and silk plushes are used in the manufacture of silk 

 or top-hats. The gossamer body of the latter requires a special mode of 

 preparation. The making of a felt hat necessitates a good many 

 processes, both wet and dry. The felting and cohesion of the wool 

 and fur fibres also necessitate the use of soaps and oils, while shellac, 

 resin, and gums are used as stiffening and milling agents, also borax and 

 spirits of wine. The dyeing of the wool and fur fibres with fast colours 

 necessitates the knowledge of a specialist. 



Fur Fibres. The several characteristics of fur fibres used in hat- 

 making have been enumerated by Mr. J. Marshall of Hyde, Cheshire, as 

 follows : 



" The best [fur] is that which is from the beaver, and the following 

 come next in merit in the order in which they are here placed : the 

 Turkish hare, the Saxony hare, the Musk rat, the English hare, and 

 rabbits of various localities. But furs of widely different values are 

 taken from different parts of the same skin. The furs just enumerated 

 are chiefly used for the special purpose of plying the nap required by 

 ladies' hats. They are also extensively employed for mixing with other 

 furs of inferior quality. Rabbit's fur, as may well be supposed from its 

 abundance, is the sheet anchor for the fur hat manufacturer. Rabbit 

 skins are sorted into first, second, and third qualities, and the value of the 

 different furs they yield is determined in the following manner, viz. : 



1st. Quality from the backs of best selected skins. 

 2nd. second. 



3rd. 

 4th. 

 5th. 

 6th. 

 7th. 



third. 



sides. 



clippings from the sides. 

 ,, ,, tails, 



heads. 



