220 



TEXTILE FIBRES. 



The fibres of wool used for the making of felt hats are contaminated 

 with burs and other plant impurities, which are removed chiefly in 

 the first or opening process. The next process is the washing. The 

 wool is immersed in a trough containing a scouring or soapy solution, 

 to remove the yolk which adheres to its fibres, as shown in fig. 142. 

 These are fibres of Heifer wool, as they appear under the microscope, 

 with the yolk attached and in the natural state. In this condition 

 the yolked fibres could not be used for hats; hence the necessity for 

 washing the wool thoroughly. 



The fibres, when cleaned, are carded and combed in a roller and 

 clearer card, which straightens them. They are then combed off in a 



Fig. 142. Wool fibres with yolk (magn.). 



web and delivered in two separate slivers. These are guided on to 

 conical blocks in a spiral curve, allowing a little for the brim or margin 

 of the whole hat body. 



In making a cone from the carded sliver web, it is necessary to 

 cross and recross the lines, and to get the material as equal as possible 

 in thickness in every part, in order to gain strength. 



These cones of fibres are next put on a perforated iron plate, through 

 which steam is blown and heat imparted. They are then hardened by 

 putting them between folds of damp linen, and next taken to the 

 plank or battery room. The other machines through which the 

 material passes are the bumpers. These consolidate the felted material. 

 It then undergoes twisting, stretching, proofing, steaming, stoving, 



