170 PLANT PROPAGATION 
Cuttings are very extensively employed. The perfectly 
hardy kinds should be made of shoots of the current 
season’s growth from 9g inches to 12 inches long. If 
with a heel of the old wood, so much the better ; if not, 
cut the lower end smoothly just below a joint with a 
_ sharp knife, leave all buds intact, and plant the cuttings 
firmly to half their length in a north border outdoors 
from August to October. They will callus during 
winter, and in spring emit roots, and thus be fit for 
transplanting in one year. Tea-scented and tender kinds 
should be inserted in pots of sandy soil and given pro- 
tection under glass in winter, during which time they 
will become callused, and on bringing them into a little 
warmth in spring roots will be quickly encouraged to 
grow. Shoots from plants that have been forced supply 
excellent material for cuttings, which, of course, may be 
put in earlier. The sooner cuttings are inserted after 
they are made and before they have had time to dry the 
greater is the promise of success. 
Layering is done by pegging down shoots that have 
been tongued through a joint in early summer. Such 
are generally sufficiently well rooted for removal in the 
following autumn. ; 
Division in February answers very well with such as 
the Fairy Rose and Scotch Rose if care be taken to see 
that each portion is furnished with roots. 
Suckers of kinds growing on their own roots can 
sometimes be taken off with roots and replanted. 
Propagating from seed is only adopted by those 
desiring to raise new varieties or for growing seedling 
Briars for stocks. The hips, whence the seeds are 
obtained, should be fully ripe. Some growers rub them 
in sand to remove the pulp and separate the seed and 
