Types and Market Classes of Live Stock 291 



are crossed in every direction so as to assist the felting or milling of 

 the cloth. Yarn for woolen cloth is very slightly twisted, so as to leave 

 the fibers as free as possible for the felting process; worsted yarn, on 

 the contrary, is hard spun and made into a much stronger thread. 

 By the process of manufacture, woolens are felted so as to leave little 

 or no appearance of the thread, while in worsteds the threads are plainly 

 evident. Woolens usually have a fuzzy, downy surface, while worsteds 

 have a smooth, hard finish. Worsteds hold their shape better than 

 woolens. Worsted cloths have a more clearly defined pattern and 

 more firmly woven appearance than woolens. Woolen cloths are softer 

 and the various colors are not so distinct in the cloth. ^ The principal 

 worsted cloth is Serge, while woolens include several leading varieties 

 such as Tweeds, Cheviots, and Broadcloths. The manufacture of 

 woolen underwear is also essentially a woolen process. 



Shoddy, obtained by tearing up woolen rags by machinery, now 

 enters into the composition of all except the very finest woolen yarns. 



Fig. 108. — Woolen and worsted yarns. In the woolen yarn (upper) the short 

 wool fibers are crossed in every direction, while in the worsted yarn (lower) the fibers 

 are longer and are laid parallel to each other. 



but cannot be used in the manufacture of worsted yarn under the 

 Bradford or English system. However, a varying proportion of cotton 

 threads are often woven into worsted cloth. 



Worsteds may be dyed in the top, the yarn, or the cloth. Woolens 

 may be dyed in the wool, the yam, or the cloth. 



Pounds of wool per pound of cloth. — For woolen goods, from 3 to 

 4.64 pounds of grease wool, with an average of 3.73 pounds, are re- 

 quired to make 1 pound of cloth. The average amount of scoured 

 wool required is 1.37 pounds. For worsted cloths, from 2.56 pounds 

 to 4.55 pounds of grease wool are required, with an average of 3.66 

 pounds. The average amount of scoured wool for 1 pound of worsted 

 cloth is 1.55 pounds. ^ 



1 Men's suits are usually made from worsted cloth, except that the under part 

 of the collar is lined with woolen cloth. This is mentioned so that the reader, at 

 least the male reader, may readily find samples of the two classes of fabrics in order 

 to note the distinctions mentioned above. 



2F. R. Marshall and L. L. Heller: The Woolgrower and the Wool Trade, U. S. 

 Dept. Agr. Bui. 206, p. 24. 



