HOMEWARD BOUND 55 



The opposite banks of Seine are clear : Carl sees their 

 white cliffs and variegated coteaux, as in fine weather 

 he sails away, sitting on deck watching the last of 

 France ; tracing out first the leafy coast-line to the 

 west, and then, on the Havre side opposite, taking the 

 dip of strata on the cliffs by Fecamp, and finding it 

 ruled as level as possible, and of the hue of mouldy 

 cheese near Havre the cliffs resemble fine ripe Stilton, 

 further up they are like yellow Cheshire cheese, and at 

 Dieppe like Castile soap. Some of the French pas- 

 sengers are holding lemons as amulets, or chewing them 

 as a panacea against sea-sickness. 



The scene is changed : waves and occasionally a peep 

 of low coast-line on either hand form the view for 

 several days. The wind is fair, the moonlight nights 

 are glorious, and the Swede is going home. Trans- 

 parent clouds unveil the moonlight glittering on the 

 sails of distant vessels ; ' the sky is clear and beautifully 

 blue ; while now and then a light fleecy vapour drifts 

 slowly over the glistering stars.' All besides the whistle 

 of the watch is hushed, so that he can hear the rippling 

 and bubbling of the water as the prow cuts through it, 

 dashing the silvery spray on either side while swiftly 

 following the wild northward flight of the seafowl. 

 What a scene ! the deep-sea-fishing of such interest too ; 

 and what expressions of face and word in the sailors ! 

 What a different life ! What a contrast to the polished 

 Frenchmen he had lately left, all ruffled dandy elegance 

 or scholarly neglect! What fiery flashing vigour of 



