OLAND AND GOTHLAND 127 



sloping upward from the sea, where ten large towers and 

 four lesser turrets all come into one view, the turfy open 

 spaces broken with rocks grown over with red stonecrop ; 

 the grass set thick in patches with a small bulb with 

 oniony smell ; and brushwood of hawthorn, and sweet- 

 briar as on Gland, and wild gooseberries all set for fruit; 

 the sea, sun, and sky all a symphony in silver grey. The 

 lofty cl ill's help to form a landscape very different from that 

 of Gland. They have nice, pleasant, happy Sunday ways 

 of their own, when you are used to them. How sweet 

 their hymn-singing sounds up there in that whitewashed 

 chapel! and how happy they all look in their gardens 

 and on their cliffs and beach ! It is all so pious and 

 peaceful. Hungry with sight-seeing and sea air, we 

 went back to the hotel to dine. A stupefying surprise 

 we can get nothing till eight o'clock ! and we had landed 

 at G and breakfasted at 8 A.M. Nothing is cooked on Sun- 

 days between the hours of four and eight. 1 Down to the 

 beach again to wait. The beach smelt of the sea : most 

 beaches do, but the sea-odour is particularly strong here, 

 and invigorating. There are plenty of crablets and sand- 

 skippers, brown and orange-colour bladder-wracks, and 

 very few shells just some mussels and tiny yellow snail- 

 shaped shells, a few small bivalves, and some madre- 

 pores. Plants grow profusely among the stones, which 

 contain fossils and madrepores among the debris of lime- 

 stone and pebbles of grey and pink granite. It is this 

 rotten limestone, doubtless, that promotes the growth 

 1 This is generally the rule in Sweden. 



