MAKING AN ORCHARD. 169 



from two to three feet of previous year's growth. 

 This pruning applies to apples, pears, and the plum 

 family. Cherry trees should be dropped from the list 

 [of trees to be pruned] the first. This is the last of 

 the shortening in on these varieties. With this, the 

 fourth season's growth, the head will be formed, if all 

 has gone well, and with the exception of an occasional 

 refractory branch, which should be shortened in, will 

 not need to be touched. 



" The tree is now ready for fruiting. Com- 

 mencing in June, pinch prune [i.e., prune by 

 pinching with the thumb and finger], removing all 

 superfluous growth, and keep the head symmetrical. 

 This pruning in during June will have a tendency 

 to throw the tree into fruiting. Keep off all 

 straggling branches that have a tendency to grow 

 toward the ground. The tree is now in shape; pinch- 

 ing in will keep it there. Ingrowing branches can be 

 nipped in the bud. 



" Peaches and apricots should be treated from the 

 start as the apple and plum family, but should be 

 shortened in about half the season's growth each year. 

 The shortening in process should not be done in- 

 discriminately; they should be cut back to a good 

 bud or fork, or else the tree will soon thicken up 

 with an undesirable growth." 



In the case of apples, pears, plums, cherries, and 

 quinces, it is best to plant trees one or two years 

 old, preferably one year old. Nothing whatever 

 would be gained by planting trees three years old, 

 and the risk of their dying in consequence of removal 

 from the nursery to the orchard is very much greater 

 than it is with the younger trees. Peaches and 



