THE CANADIAN HORTICULTUKIST. 



IS 



It is very important that tlie roots 

 of no other plant occupy the soil near 

 the newly planted vine. Its roots will 

 stand a poor chance among those of 

 an established tree or vine Neither 

 should strong growing varieties be 

 planted near weak ones. Many a grape 

 of real merit has been condemned as a 

 poor grower because such gross feeders 

 as the Concord have robbed it. I have 

 an Isabella vine that has struggled 

 between two Concords nine years, and 

 has made but little headway, while 

 they are increasing in strength. Few 

 people have any idea of the distance a 

 tree will send its roots. I read of a 

 gardener who cut down a row of elms 

 because their roots interfered with the 

 flower beds three hundred feet distant. 



DISTANCE APAHT. 



That vines may be set three feet 

 apart each way, and be kept in bearing 

 condition, I have no doubt. Thirtefn 

 years ago I planted a lot of vi-.es in a 

 row thirty inches apart, and tv/o in a 

 place. The second year I allowed one 

 in each place to bear a large crop, and 

 then cut it away in the fall. These 

 vines have remained in good condition 

 ever since, although as much fruit 

 might have been produced if they had 

 been thinned first to five feet apart 

 and then to ten. 



The above cases are given to show 

 what may be done — not what should 

 be done. My experience leads me to 

 believe that a vine is more likely to 

 continue in health if it be allowed to 

 increase in size — to have more room 

 each year. In nearly every instance a 

 thinning of the vines in a vineyard has 

 been followed by satisfactory results. 

 One grower who has thinned till his 

 vines stand IT) feet apart each way, 

 claims to have found the best distance. 

 For a viueyard I prefer about eight 

 feet each way, and for a town lot I 

 ■would stick them wherever I could find 



room. It is well, when vines are worth 

 but a few cents apiece, to plant two or 

 three times as many as are wanted, and 

 the extra ones may be allowed ta 

 bear heavily — one-half the second year, 

 and the other the third, and then he 

 cut away. This gives the permanent 

 vines a fine chance to get strong before 

 they bear. A vine may be extended ta 

 any distance along a trellis or support, 

 but it requires time. It should not be 

 lengthened more than two or three 

 feet in any direction in a single season. 



CHOICK OF VARIETIES. 



What to plant is an important ques- 

 tion and should be carefully considered. 

 Very much will depend on the grower. 

 If he understand the wants of the 

 vine, and can supply them, he can raise 

 any variety, and should choose only 

 such as are desirable. It is very un- 

 satisfactory to spend money, time and 

 skill in raising an inferior article — 

 especially if it be for one's own. It is 

 always well for beginners to plant some 

 Concord and Worden vines, for they 

 are very reliable and quite good. 



PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. 



To prepare the soil for grapes is to 

 make it dry and rich. If you want to 

 do more than this, make it drier and 

 richer. It is not suflicient that it be 

 well under-di'ained, so that water will 

 not lie, but the surface water should be 

 allowed to get off before the ground 

 becomes saturated. Then plow and 

 harrow thoroughly, as for any other 

 crop. 



FERTILIZERS. 



Thoroughly decomposed barn-yard 

 manui-e is sufficient for the grape or 

 any other crop we cultivate. In its 

 absence, bone dust and ashes answer 

 all purposes. Nitrogenous manures 

 cause a rapid growth, but they should 

 never be used where the highest flavored 

 fruit is desired. The choicest wine is 

 made from grapes grown on poor, rocky 



