THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



255 



The cellar, sixteen by forty feet and 

 thi'ee feet deep, has a wall eighteen 

 inches thick and rising a foot above 

 ground, upon which plates for rafters 

 are bolted to keep the roof from spread- 

 ing. Inside, the house is four feet 

 high at the eaves and eleven at the 

 peak. The ends are weather-boarded 

 on both sides of six-inch studs and 

 filled in with sawdust, which is also 

 packed between the roof and a lining 

 of rough boards nailed on the lower 

 side of the rafters. This is frost proof 

 and protects against sudden changes. 

 A ventilator ten inches wide the entire 

 length of the roof at the peak, with 

 lifting lid worked by a lever inside, 

 admits air when needed and gives escape 

 for any heat that may generate from 

 the celery. A door at each end, lined 

 and packed, a small window over each 

 to admit light, and steps to get down 

 with, complete the house, costing about 

 $200. 



In putting away the celery, posts are 

 set in the ground ten inches apart be- 

 ginning at each side of the end of the 

 house and coming towards the centre, 

 which gives seven feet to the side, leav- 

 ing a passage-way two feet wide through 

 the entire length of the building. Three 

 sets of posts on one side and four on 

 the other will just suit sixteen-feet 

 boards, two and a half length on one 

 side and two lengths on the other, with 

 a space eight feet square for a washing- 

 tank and room to prepare for market. 

 Beginning next to the wall, we nail a 

 board one foot wide to the posts, so 

 that the tops of the celery are even 

 with the top of the board, leaving a 

 space from four to six inches between 

 the bottom of the board and the ground, 

 through which one hand can be thrust 

 to pack the I'oots, while the other holds 

 the tops of the celery above. We have 

 some loose rich soil to throw over tlie 

 roots, but not on the stalks. After 

 the trench or box is full from end to 



end, with a hose throwing a small 

 sti'eam we wet and settle the soil around 

 the roots, which form new rootlets in a 

 few days. We never handle when wet 

 or damp from any cause, neither allow 

 the stalks to be wet when wetting the 

 soil around the roots. 



After the house has been filled about 

 five days, care mvist be taken to give 

 proper ventilation at the top, as there 

 will be a violent heat created by the 

 mass of celery so packed, and unless 

 that heat is allowed vent rot will follow. 

 After this heat subsides there will be 

 no further trouble or danger, though it 

 is best to ventilate freely in warm 

 weather, but always from the top. — 

 T. F. Baker. 



SOIL FOR ROSES. 

 The ground for roses should be tho- 

 roughly drained and rendered as jdoi'Ous 

 as possible, and fertilized. In clay soils 

 the vise of sand, lime, soot, burnt earth 

 and loose, light vegetable matter, such 

 as leaf mould, will alter the texture and 

 improve the quality. At the time of 

 planting, strong fertilizers are not re- 

 quired, and should not be given until 

 the bushes have become established ; 

 they then like rich soil, which should 

 be made light for the delicate rooting 

 kinds, and more tenacious for the robust 

 and hardy, and it would be reasonable 

 that the classes and varieties differing 

 in their nature should have more than 

 one soil, if all ax'e to receive that which 

 is the most suitable. A renewal of the 

 surface soil with old pasture loam every 

 two or thi'ee years will supply import- 

 ant elements unattainable by any other 

 method. We should avoid the applica- 

 tion of more fertilizers in a soluble state 

 than the plants can consume. It is well 

 that the earth should be filled with 

 stimulants in difi'erent stages of de- 

 composition, that the plant may in all 

 conditions of growth have plenty of 

 food. When the plant is gi'owing and 



