136 The Canadian Horticulturist. 



outer branches thinned to entice the sunshine to the fruit, instead of forcing all 

 the fruit out to the sunshine by persistently trimming off all the young growth 

 up a branch, leaving bearing spray only at the extreme end, thereby giving the 

 wind every chance to do damage with this leverage of, in some instances, 12 feet 

 or 15 feet of bare limb. — The Garden. 



Do Varieties of Fruits Run Out? — -This question was discussed by 

 Prof. Bailey, in a very thoughtful paper read before the W. N. Y. Horticultural 

 Society. In his opinion the disappearance of varieties is not due to age. The 

 Ribston is at least two hundred years old, and still one of England's now popular 

 apples. The explanation is rather to be found in the fact that varieties are more 

 or less local in their adaptation, and are ill adapted to their new environments. 

 English apples are not well adapted to American conditions, and even New 

 England apples, such as the Baldwin, are not so well adapted to the Western 

 States as some varieties originating in the west. 



Growing" Tuberoses. — The secret of success with tuberoses is to sun and 

 thoroughly dry the bulbs after digging them in fall. If the weather is clear and 

 warm, cover them at night to protect them from frost. If it is rainy or cold, dry 

 them with fire-heat. Keep them through the winter in the warmest dry place 

 available. Macon county, North Carolina, on account of its altitude has a 

 climate much like that of Philadelphia. To grow early blooms, I select perfect 

 bulbs with a healthy centre-shoot, and plant them in a depression in a raised bed 

 with a south-east exposure. I do not wait until the weather is quite settled, but 

 plant when the days are beginning to be warm, even if the nights are quite cold 

 and frosty. The depressions in which the bulbs are planted are from three to 

 four inches below the general surface of the surrounding soil. I cover only the 

 central shoots — that is, the sharp points of the bulbs, which, if they have been 

 kept sufficiently dry and warm, will show signs of growth — with an inch of dry 

 soil. When it rains, freezes or is quite cold, I cover the bed with boards. I also 

 cover it at night aad do not uncover in the morning until the air is warm. If 

 the nights are very cold I put on some additional covering, such as bundles of 

 fodder, straw or strips of old carpet, until the sun gets warm next day. I am 

 careful that no rain falls upon the bulbs until both days and nights are quite 

 warm. By that time small roots are formed, and the tops of the tuberoses soon 

 start into a vigorous growth. Bulbs started in this way blossom from two to 

 three weeks earlier than those not planted until cold weather has gone. Tube- 

 roses do not require a very rich soil, but it should be light, warm and fairly good. 

 Poor soil gives delicate blossoms and small spikes. Good soil gives firm, 

 medium-sized blooms, and handsome spikes, that last well. Soil made very rich 

 gives long, heavy spikes and large blooms, but they fade quickly. 



