166 The Canadian Horticulturist. 



and also keeps the ground cool and loose, which is necessary to successful growth. 

 Once hoeing after the crop is off, is usually enough to keep the grass and weeds 

 away from the plants. 



( 'ark. — This item might have been struck out of currant culture forty years 

 ago, considering it aside from cultivation, pruning and manuring ; but not so 

 to-day, as every decade since then has more or less changed the application of 

 the word, until now I take it to mean that the would-be successful grower must 

 always be taking care that insects and diseases do not reduce his returns below 

 the cost of production. 



The only defense against the borer is by keeping up a strong, thrifty growth 

 of young sound wood, as the destroyed canes are taken out at the annual 

 pruning. The borer attacks all varieties, black, red or white, but the Raby 

 Castle or Victoria seems best able to resist its attacks. 



The currant worm only attacks red and white, the black being exempt. 

 Two broods appear each season — the first soon after the leaves open in the 

 spring, and the second just as the fruit is ripening. Paris green, diluted with 

 water as per usual directions, and driven through the bushes with spray pump 

 so as to wet all the foliage, will destroy the first brood, but as the second brood 

 comes just at ripening time, fresh hellebore diluted in water. 2 lbs. to 40 gallons, 

 and applied immediately will destroy them, or mixing the hellebore with sifted 

 clay, road dust, lime or flour, one part to ten, and dusted thoroughly through 

 the bushes, will destroy them. But I prefer the water and spraying pump, as 

 the dusting is not so certain ; for, if put on when the foliage is wet the dust clogs 

 up and hinders the work, and, if put on when foliage is dry, the wind may blow 

 it off before it has done its work. [Powdered hellebore without mixing with 

 dust is very effective. — Ed.] Hellebore should be applied always in the morn- 

 ing or forenoon, as the worms are most active in the warm part of the day, 

 and it loses its strength by evaporation in three or four hours. I find it destroys 

 them entirely if they get it soon after application, if not, they continue to eat and 

 grow fat. He sure your druggist gives you fresh hellebore, which has not lost 

 its strength by exposure to air in the shop. 



To dissolve in water, stir 2 lbs. into a pail of hot water and let it stand fifteen 

 minutes, then pour off liquid into 40 gallons of cold water. 



I tried the water can for applying the poison last year, and was not success- 

 ful, as it did not wet the foliage below, where the worms usually hatch, but the 

 spray makes a thorough job ; and I find if the work is well done and in proper 

 time on the first brood, there will not be enough of them left to produce the 

 second brood. The latter is much more difficult to treat, on account of the 

 hellebore losing its strength so soon after application. I would say just here 

 that hellebore is not poisonous to man one day after application. 



Many say the worms destroy their bushes in a day or two after hatching, 



