The Canadian Horticulturist. 167 



but this is not true. The eggs are laid along the ribs on the lower side of the 

 leaf in batches of one to two dozen, and when hatched each little worm is not 

 more than ^ of an inch long, and begins eating a hole through the leaf, giving it 

 the appearance of having been shot through with fine shot. If the grower keeps 

 a lookout for them, they are very easily found by these perforated leaves here 

 and there, near the base of the bushes ; and, as the brood will not all be hatched 

 in less than a week, it is as well to wait till they are nearly all out (especially 

 when using hellebore), as none of the first hatched will be large enough to 

 destroy enough foliage in that time to do any material damage. Let me say 

 again here, do the work thoroughly the first time, in every respect, and you will 

 save yourself a great deal of trouble later on. 



I find also in wet seasons, like that of last June, a leaf 'blight on the Cherry, 

 Fay, Red Dutch, and White currants, only the Raby Castle, or Victoria, escaping. 

 It makes its appearance shortly before the fruit begins to ripen, and, by the time 

 the fruit is fully ripe, nearly all the foliage has been destroyed and has fallen to 

 the ground, leaving the fruit exposed to sun scald ; in consequence it must be 

 picked immediately or be lost. 



Bordeaux mixture has been tried and recommended for this, and if it should 

 be effectual the Paris green could be applied in it for the first brood of worms. 



Defoliation, whether caused by the worm or by the blight will do more 

 to stop the growth and vitality of the currant bush than any other cause and the 

 effects are easily seen for two or three years after, as it seems almost impossible 

 to get a currant to grow, or bear for two or three years after being once thoroughly 

 defoliated ; therefore we must, if possible, prevent it. 



Another source of loss is surface water. Take care to keep it off, especially 

 in hot weather, as I believe it tends to increase the effects of the blight, besides 

 making the surface hard. A good plan, if the ground is not underdrained, is to 

 run a furrow between each row and cross furrow in water courses, after each 

 cultivation ; at least on heavy soils One great advantage of keeping the foliage 

 on is the heavy crops of large currants, another is that the fruit will hang on for 

 weeks after it is ripe ; but if growth and foliage is weak and slim, the fruit will 

 not keep, and must be picked all at once, forcing the crop on the markets and 

 lowering the prices. Another loss will be found in the fruit being splashed with 

 mud and sand when not protected by dense foliage, making it unsalable. 



As to varieties, I would prefer the Black Naples for a medium to early- 

 black, and, if Black Champion holds good its claims, I would plant it with a 

 view to lengthening the season of harvesting the crop, as it ripens later and 

 very evenly. In all other points it is as good as the Naples, except not quite 

 as good a grower. Lee's Prolific is rather a slow grower, with fruit smaller, 

 and it is a very good bearer. Many are planting the Lee's in preference to the 

 Naples, probably because they have been sold bogus plants of Naples which are 

 being sold by careless or unprincipled nurserymen. 



