The Canadian Horticulturist. 179 



roots throw out an abundance of fibres ; thus weakly growing varieties of the 

 rose can be made to attain a size more quickly than if upon their own roots. 

 The Manetti root adapts itself to a variety of soils more readily than that of the 

 Hvbrid roses, and if planted in good season the strong budded plants always 

 produce some bloom the same season. We know of but one objection to the 

 budded, or, as they are frequently called, grafted, roses, and that is their 

 tendency to throw up canes or suckers from below the union, which being of a 

 stronger habit will eventually divert the sap from the desired course and kill all 

 that is valuable of the rose if not removed. Hut when a shoot is observed 

 coming from the root, it is only needful to compare the foliage with that of the 

 rose from which it shoots. While nearly all hybrid perpetual roses have five 

 leaflets to each petiole or leaf stalk, the Manetti has seven. If the shoot is 

 found, upon examination, to be a sucker from the root, it must be at once 

 detached, either cut or broken off, close to the root from which it starts. The 

 rose grower has but to once recognize its peculiar appearance and it can never 

 again play the imposter. The old saying, " Forewarned is forearmed," holds 

 good in this case. Budded roses should be planted deep. Four or five inches 

 below the surface is a proper depth to place the bud or point of union. 



Mulching is done by covering the surface of the ground with manure The 

 sun having great power in the months of June and July, it is often hard to keep 

 the roots of the rose moist and cool ; and this can only be done by covering the 

 ground around the plants with manure, or else with straw, moss, grass clippings, 

 or anything that will serve the desired end. The improved quality and prolonged 

 duration of the bloom will repay the trouble. 



Insect Pests — Thrip. — The rose thrip appears upon the under surface of 

 the leaves, almost as soon as the leaves are developed. Though small, they are 

 often very numerous and very active, and, if left undisturbed, will quickly 

 destroy the appearance of the plant. To remove them, syringe with soap-suds, 

 mixed with strong tobacco tea, or, if refuse tobacco cannot be had, use sufficient 

 carbolic acid in the soap suds to make it smell. An emulsion of coal oil is also 

 effective. 



The Green Worm or Caterpillar appears just in time to feed upon 

 the tender points of buds. Hellebore powder will, if unadulterated, quickly 

 destroy this troublesome pest. It usually happens that, if the thrip is well 

 guarded against, the green worm makes but little, if any, headway ; still, it is 

 well to be on the outlook for him. A few plants can be kept free from this 

 insect by simply catching and crushing it. 



The Rose Aphis sometimes appears in great numbers, first upon the tips 

 of the young canes, becoming, if unmolested, more numerous and more difficult 

 to destroy. The same remedy that subdues the thrip will destroy the aphis. We 



