PRUNING 



remain on the plant; therefore cut harder on the 

 weak growths and afterwards reduce the length of 

 the stem to suit your fancy. Unless you have 

 hybridized, or wish to try raising seed from chance 

 fertilization, you do not need the seed pods or heps 

 to develop, and if twice a week during the blooming 

 season you pick all old blooms from your plants 

 you will not only keep the beds in better order but 

 secure more flowers thereafter. 



Spring pruning as given here applies to roses 

 after the first year. For the first year they should 

 all be cut back to three eyes on good wood and one 

 eye in weak wood. This gives the young, unestab- 

 lished roots less work to do and provides more time 

 for them to prepare for the following year. 



In pruning other varieties not mentioned in our 

 list, and neither Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Perpetuals, 

 nor Teas, the main work to be done is always to cut 

 out all the dead wood. This, of course, also applies 

 to the list. Moderate pruning only is necessary and 

 the same theories which we have advanced for our 

 list will be found to give good results for other roses, 

 with the exception of the climbers and those specially 

 mentioned. 



To go over the main points, the theories which 

 we have tried to bring out hi this chapter are: 

 prune when the new growth can be plainly noted; 



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