314 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



the rains that may fall on the border. Perhaps the safest 

 and simplest plan to prevent the roots getting through 

 into the cold subsoil is to cement the bottom of this ex- 

 oavation. One inch of thickness of cement is enough. 

 When this is done the border material may be thrown in, 

 filling it up five or six inches higher than the general 

 level to allow for settling. Be careful never to handle 

 the materials for the border in wet weather. 



OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE VINERY 



little may be here said, as there are now architects in 

 every large city, fully competent to give plans. I will 

 simply say that for early forcing, or perhaps in all 

 graperies where artificial heat is used, the lean-to or one- 

 sided structure is preferable, or what is more sightly and 

 will answer equally well, is the two- third span green- 

 house now considered the best model for Eose forcing. 

 (See Greenhouse Structures. ) While for cold graperies, 

 or those not heated artificially, the curvilinear or span- 

 roofed is the best. (See Green-house Structures.) The 

 "lean-to" or "two-third span" may be 1 8 or 20 feet 

 wide, and of any desired length, giving a length of rafter 

 from 20 to 24 feet. When the curvilinear span for cold 

 vineries are used, the base width may be 25 feet, which 

 will give about 15 feet of rafter on each side. 



PLANTING THE VINE. 



Amateurs planting graperies, commonly desire to pro- 

 duce vines that are two or three years old, but such as 

 have had much experience with stocking new graperies, 

 know that a one-year-old vine that is well ripened, better 

 answers the purpose than those of greater age; in fact it 

 is a question whether a vine started from an eye in Feb- 

 ruary or March, and planted in June, will not by Sep- 

 tember make as fine a cane as one of any greater age. 

 As such vines are not very easily transportable or even 

 procurable at all by beginners, the best thing they can do 



