318 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



are cut back, or spurred to one eye. The vine is no^w 

 complete. The upper part will bear its first crop on it? 

 next season's growth; the bearing wood when next pruned 

 will be cut back as before to one eye, and so on annually 

 the side branches or bearing wood to be cut back to one 

 eye, the bunches of fruit being borne on the spurs annu- 

 ally. 



IN FORCING VINERIES. 



The temperature to start with should be from fifty to 

 fifty-five degrees at night, with a day temperature of ten 

 or fifteen degrees higher, increasing ten degrees when the 

 buds are fairly broken, which will be in about a month 

 from time of starting; in six or seven weekp more, the 

 fruit will be set and the temperature may be raised ten 

 degrees more, and so continued. Next in importance to 

 temperature is 



MOISTURE. 



The vine luxuriates in what gardeners call a *' tropical 

 atmosphere," and during the whole period of its growth, 

 particularly in our arid climate, the grapery should be 

 copiously syringed twice a day with water of the temper- 

 ature of the house, until the first young leaves are formed. 

 Besides this, evaporating pans placed on the pipes should 

 at all times be kept full of water. In cold vineries, where 

 there are no pipes, water should be freely dashed all over 

 the floor; this necessity for moisture occurs during the 

 whole period of the growth of the vine until the fruit is 

 beginning to ripen, except that at the time the vines are 

 in flower, it must be discontinued, as a dry atmosphere 

 is best fitted for the proper fertilizing action of the pol- 

 len. I have long believed the cause of 



RUST ON THE GRAPE, 



Is an excess of moisture at the time of the " setting " 

 of the fruit; the " flower," the cup of petals, instead of 



