PORK ALL FAT. 



with both properties, will make the heaviest return, 

 and in an article of superior quality, for the quantity 

 of meat consumed. 



The best PORK, in course, must be expected from 

 the smallest, most delicate, and fine-fleshed varieties ; 

 for example, as has been before observed, those which 

 have resulted from crosses with the southern stock, 

 or with" the wild boar of the continent. All our 

 reputed porking breeds have this mixture in various 

 degrees. But I must here put in my plea of objec- 

 tion more strongly, and in the name of good old 

 English ROAST PORK, against the modern principle 

 of sacrificing every thing to fat, and consequently 

 against those breeds, too frequently and deeply 

 crossed with the foreign forms, which produce no 

 lean. In bacon, or salted pork, all fat may be tole- 

 rable, and even may be preferred by some palates ; 

 but in roasted pork it is not possible but that a cer- 

 tain portion of lean flesh must be desirable, scarcely 

 a taste of which is to be found in the hinder loins, at 

 any rate of the species under consideration. The 

 little flesh, too, yielded by such pork is of an inferior 

 greasy quality, and insipid flavour, perhaps neces- 

 sarily, from being so thoroughly saturated with the 

 fatty material; and should pigs of this description 

 be slaughtered before they have become ripe or fat, 

 their pork will be ordinary, and their weight very 

 short of the profitable standard. On such considera- 

 tions, the western pigs, chiefly those of Berks, Ox- 

 ford, Beds, and Bucks, possess a decided superiority 

 over the eastern, of Essex, Suffolk, and Norfolk ; not 

 to forget another qualification in the former, at which 



