THE CHEESE DAIRY. 251 



viction and abandonment. I, however, not to be dis- 

 couraged or distanced in the career of improvement, 

 became inoculated, and communicated the affection to 

 a near relative in Essex, who had meadows producing 

 the most fragrant butter to be conceived. I sent her 

 the Cheshire process, from which, personally super- 

 intending it, she manufactured indeed some of the 

 richest of cheese, but about as equal to Cheshire, 

 whether new or old, as home-made British is to 

 foreign wine. It was fat, milky, insipid, and void 

 of all strength or flavour. 



My inquiry as to the cause of this failure has been 

 answered by the assertion, that superior cheese-making 

 depends on the peculiar and local nature of the her- 

 bage. I wait for further light. All things change ; 

 who then can say that, anon, the best Gloucestershire 

 and Cheshire cheese may not be made in Middlesex, 

 Essex, and Suffolk ? 



The process of CHEESE-MAKING is generally well 

 understood in the regular cheese-making districts, 

 which supply the rest of the country with such an 

 admirable commodity, whether of the fancy or useful 

 kinds ; but it is not worth repetition elsewhere, being, 

 as the case stands, merely an inducement to people to 

 waste good milk. The bang of Suffolk and Norfolk 

 is misapplied; it ought to be cut into latches for gates, 

 a use to which I have formerly seen it applied in 

 those counties. 



THE CHEESE DAIRY. I have just now observed, 



that to make ordinary cheese is merely to waste good 



milk, which, however, must be understood as refer- 



ing only to private families, since farmers who have 



M 6 



