ELLIS ARTICLES OF ADULTERATION. 363 



the rural economist, Ellis, of Little Gacldesden, 

 Herts. This conscientious writer, in despite of the 

 classical rule, nee Deus intersit nisi, invokes the as- 

 sistance of the Almighty, in his attempt to purify the 

 morals of wicked brewers whereas I content myself 

 with an invocation of the powers below. Riding 

 through Little Gaddesden some forty years bygone, 

 I inquired respecting Ellis of an aged person, and 

 others of the village, describing Ellis's profession and 

 pursuits ; but none of them had ever heard of such a 

 man ; so that it would seem, neither an author nor a 

 prophet hath honour or remembrance in his own 

 country. Sic transit gloria of us scribblers on good 

 and bad beer. 



The attachment, according to Ellis, even in his 

 cheap days, both of brewers and the public, to im- 

 proved beer, was in existence, if not in an equal 

 degree with that of the present happy days of all- 

 improving taxation. The brewers then used, as they 

 had done long before coculus Indicus, g. p. (grains 

 of paradise), black malts (treacle), coarse sugar, 

 salt, coriander seed, &c. Ale, as I have lately 

 tasted it, well seasoned with salt, sweetened with 

 sugar and fined with hot seeds, may be a comfort- 

 able and exciting drink, yet not so well calculated 

 to agree with and strengthen, as gradually to debi- 

 litate the stomach. Ellis says that the Indian berry 

 has the same quality as the deadly nightshade of 

 this country ; also that one pound of coriander seeds, 

 then sold for tenpence, being boiled in the wort, will 

 prove equal in strength to one bushel of malt. It is 

 certainly one of the least hurtful articles, but far 



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