186 WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA. 



case, them must be contented with a moderate and 

 well-intended attempt. 



Nothing could be more lovely than the 

 appearance of the forest on each side of this 

 noble river. Hills rose on hills in tine gradation, all 

 covered with trees of gigantic height and size. Here 

 their leaves were of a lively purple, and there of the 

 deepest green. Sometimes the Caracara extended its 

 scarlet blossoms from branch to branch, and gave the 

 tree the appearance as though it had been hung with 

 garlands. 



This delightful scenery of the Essequibo made the 

 soul overflow with joy, and caused you to rove in fancy 

 through fairy-land ; till, on turning an angle of the 

 river, you were recalled to more sober reflections on 

 seeing the once grand and towering niora, now dead 

 and ragged in its topmost branches, while its aged 

 trunk, undermined by the rushing torrent, hung as 

 though in sorrow over the river, which, ere long, would 

 receive it, and sweep it away for ever. 



During the day, the trade-wind blew a gentle and 

 refreshing breeze, which died away as the night set in, 

 and then the river was as smooth as glass. 



The moon was within three days of being full, so 

 that we did not regret the loss of the sun, which set 

 in all its splendour. Scarce had he sunk behind the 

 western hills, when the goatsuckers sent forth their 

 soft and plaintive cries ; some often repeating, " Who 

 are you who, who, who are you ?" and others, " Willy, 

 Willy, Willy come go." 



The Indian and Daddy Quashi often shook their 

 head at this, and said they were bringing talk from 

 Yabahou, who is the evil spirit of the Essequibo. It 



