116 JOURNAL. 



foot of steep rocks which overhang the sea, and advance so close to 

 it in some places as barely to leave room for a narrow street, and open 

 in others, so as to admit of two middling squares, one of which is the 

 market-place, and has on one side the governor's house, which is back- 

 ed by a little fort crowning a low hill. The other square is dignified 

 by the Iglesia Matriz, which, as there is no bishop here, stands in 

 place of a cathedral. From these squares several ravines or quebra- 

 das branch off; these are filled with houses, and contain, I should ima- 

 gine, the bulk of the population, which I am told amounts to 15,000 

 souls ; further on there is the arsenal, where there are a few slips for 

 building boats, and conveniences for repairing vessels ; but all appear- 

 ing poor ; and still farther is the outer fort, which terminates the port 

 on that side. To the east of the governor's house, the town extends 

 half a quarter of a mile or a little more, and then joins its suburb the 

 Almendral, situated on a flat, sandy, but fertile plain, which the re- 

 ceding hills leave between them and the sea. The Almendral ex- 

 tends to three miles in length, but is very narrow ; the houses, like 

 most of those in the town, are of one story. They are all built of 

 unburnt bricks, whitewashed and covered with red tiles ; there are 

 two churches, one of the Merced *, rather handsome, and two con- 

 vents, besides the hospital, which is a religious foundation. The Al- 

 mendral is full of olive groves, and of almond gardens, whence it has 

 its name ; but, though far the pleasantest part of the town, it is not 

 believed to be safe to live in it, lest one should be robbed or murdered, 

 so that my taking a cottage at the very end of it is rather wondered 

 at than approved. But I feel very safe, because I believe no one 

 robs or kills without temptation or provocation ; and as I have nothing 

 to tempt thieves, so I am determined not to provoke murderers. 



My house is one of the better kind of really Chilian cottages. It 

 consists of a little entrance-hall, and a large sittingroom 16 feet 

 square, at one end of which a door opens into a little dark bedroom, 



* The royal, religious, and military order of the Merced was instituted by the king 

 Don Jayme el Conquistador, for the purpose of redeeming captives. 



